Plain Jane Plain Talk

Journals from the road, trails and at sea

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  • 35 miles offshore: Georgetown SC to Wrightsville NC

    Georgetown SC to Wrightsville Beach NC
    4/11/2008

    We departed the Harborwalk Marina in downtown Georgetown about mid-day on Thursday — to set anchor at approximately 1 mile from the mouth of Winyah Bay. Georgetown was 90 minutes (at 6 knots travel speed) from the mouth of Winyah Bay — so our goal was to eliminate this portion of travel for Friday’s early AM anticipated 130 mile sail to Wrightsville NC. We set anchor in 10 feet of water in an area called Mosquito Creek. Mosquito Creek is a completely remote area — populated only by sea grass and pelicans. Or so we thought.

    Can we talk about bugs?… In Charleston (and Georgetown) — no-see-ums are downright brutal. You wake up in the AM – and parts of your arm is missing. All that is left are huge itchy welts — that will itch for weeks. From a bug standpoint, I was glad to be leaving Charleston & Georgetown.

    For some reason, it didn’t occur to us that a place named “Mosquito Creek”….would be full of — you guessed it — mosquitoes. They were everywhere…and many layers thick. By early Thursday evening, a dense fog rolled in. We could see it rolling toward us – and within 5 minutes – we couldn’t no longer see the bow of our boat from the cockpit. At about the same time, the first wave of mosquitoes appeared. Thursday night felt like I was giving blood at the Red Cross.

    To avoid the mosquitoes…we spend the night hiding inside the salon – with the doors and hatches shut tight. (it didn’t really matter…the mosquitoes somehow found their way inside!).

    Our original plan was to depart the anchorage by 3AM — for a long day of sailing to Wrightsville. This would allow us to skip the stop at Southport — and just get this northward trek moving along a bit faster. But, the pesky fog was just too thick. We do have radar and lots of computer navigation equipment — BUT, in an unknown port with a tricky channel into the ocean – it just made more sense to stay put. By 6:30AM we had some visibility in the fog – so we pulled up anchor – and began motoring to the channel.

    The weather forecasts indicated that the seas would be calm, and the winds very light in the AM. By mid-afternoon we were projected to have 10 knots from the south…and by evening 15-20 knots. Winds and seas would increase after midnight.

    Our departure from Winyah Bay was on a flood tide – with currents at 2 ½ knots. There are some very strange currents, tides, land surface action going on in this Inlet – and it was a surprisingly rough ride out to sea. I was glad that I hadn’t elected to eat breakfast before we left. About 3 miles beyond the jetty’s — the water action relaxed…and the seas were calm with 2 foot swells. At some point, we would need to decide if we would attempt to go to Wrightsville (130 miles) or Southport (70 miles).

    Sunrise at Winyah Bay. It looks like the fog is about to lift eh? It lifts for about 30 minutes…and suddenly a new wave of fog starts setting in. We had gotten offshore at this point – and watched the fog remove all reference to land — and move toward us. Guess we were moving fast enough — as we didn’t get fogged in offshore.

    We had been motor-sailing for a few hours, when suddenly the ocean water turned this beautiful shade of turquoise blue. I tried to capture this with my camera — and I can assure you that this is TRULY the color of the water — no photo touch up here! I am guessing at this point that we are about 20 nautical miles offshore. The air was light in the morning – so we continued to tweak with the sails and the route — to see if there was anything we could do to improve an arrival time to Wrightsville. Presently, at a speed of 6.5 knots — we wouldn’t arrive into Wrightville until 2AM the next morning.

    By early afternoon — a light breeze started to appear — and we were able to muster 8 knots motor-sailing. We had both the main and jib hoisted — and occasionally we even reached 8.3 knots. Woo hoo!

    We made the decision to attempt to get to Wrightsville. The air should freshen up by early evening — and with any luck — we could improve our arrival time. At one point, Pat informed me that we were at our greatest distance from shore — 35 nautical miles. OK, I didn’t really need to know that. I thought we were only at most 20 nm from shore. 35 nm seemed to be pretty far out for moi. Only a few times do you actually see other boaters/humans. You are pretty much on your own. This can be eerie. With the sense that you are “all alone” out there, we get pretty excited when we see anything that moves (other than the water). We saw a total of 5 sea turtles (they look like big brown blobs…until you get closer and can actually see the head and huge feet). The turtles just float & sunbathe at the surface – and then when they are good-n-ready – they do a deep dive and you no longer see them.

    By 6:30PM, we had rounded Frying Pan Shoals, and could begin a new tack for the remaining 30 miles inland toward Wrightsville. By 8PM — the sun had set, and by 8:30PM the remaining twilight was eroding. The winds did pick up – and we did an easy 8 plus knots with just the main sail. Even though we were still 30 miles until we reached Wrightsville — I could now see land (via lights). It was a clear night — so we were also treated to moon and starlight. A well-lit evening sail. By 9PM, the seas were beginning to get bigger, as the winds kicked up to 20 knots. We brought down the main sail, and just unfurled the jib for the remaining short distance. Navigating into the Inlet for Wrightsville was a bit stressful — because there are a zillion blinking navigation lights, lots of land lights – and I’m trying to call out headings to Pat via the navigation software. He is hand steering the boat – as we are getting pushed around pretty good by the swells and winds. The autohelm is pretty useless in keeping a heading. Any little deviation and you are into 1 foot of water. By 11:45PM, we had anchored for the evening…and within 30 minutes — gale force winds kicked up. We got in to Wrightsville – just in time!

  • Tourists in historic Georgetown SC – the home of the GREAT OAK tree

    Tourists in Georgetown SC
    4/7/2008 – 4/10/2008

    The Harborwalk Marina is a stone throw from downtown historic Georgetown. The grocery store turns out to be a few more stone throws from the marina — and just about everyone in Georgetown can provide you with confident & precise directions to the grocery store — which won’t actually get you there. But hey, I found the Piggly Wiggle (Wiggly) after adding about 3 extra miles to those directions. En route, I discovered that Georgetown is actually a very historic place.

    Many houses have both a street number and a DATE (like 1765 or 1810)…the oak trees are ancient (we met the State Champion Oak Tree — nearly 600 years old!)…there are little landmark signs just about everywhere explaining either some American Revolution, Plantation or Civil War artifact, and Georgetown can boast one of the few remaining working steel mills left in the US. There is a Paper factory here too — and when the winds are just right (from the south) — can produce some nasty smells. We’ve only had northerly winds. Silver lining eh?

    While Charleston hosts a mix of southern locals and transients, Georgetown seems to be the home of the native southerners. The southern drawl here is very pronounced, and it takes me an extra 20 seconds to digest what the heck people are saying. Try out some of these:

    One block from our marina in the starboard direction, is a dock used by the local shrimp boats. And, surprise, surprise…right next to where the shrimp boats unload their catch — is an independent seafood market – open to the public. Here, you can buy fresh shrimp and other seafood catch of the day – very cheap & very fresh. Wow – what a treat! No more trips to the Wiggly….

    Conversely, going 1 block in the port direction from our boat is the commerce section of old Georgetown. This main street in historic Georgetown is lined with very old buildings – now filled with nick-knack stores, tour guides, multiple barber shops run by 80+ year old barbers, one guys-only-but-they’ll-let-girls-in fitness center, and many restaurants (which all feature shrimp entrees – go figure!).

    But alas, southerly winds are coming (Friday) – so we will be departing Georgetown by noon on Thursday – to find anchorage closer to the inlet at Winyah Bay. The plan is to try to make 2 legs of our travels north on Friday with southerly winds – and we expect to depart Winyah Bay at 3AM – fog permitting. Approximately 120 miles — with arrival in Wrightsville NC by 9PM that same evening. That’s the plan.

  • Charleston to Georgetown offshore…we have no steering!

    Sunday, April 6 — up at 5am to analyze weather information from about 5 different sources. It appears winds are light – they start south-westerly – and we may get 10-15knots of wind offshore. We decide to gamble…and see how the weather REALLY is offshore. We can decide to go back to Charleston if it is unfavorable.

    The ocean swells are much larger than I remember on my prior 2 offshore outings. I am estimating 4-5 feet. Probably due to the last 2 days being VERY windy….As we headed out of the Charleston Harbor along the jetty’s — we took the swells head on. A bit bumpy…but not a show stopper….so we kept going out. About 7 miles offshore, it appeared that the winds were very light. We might be able to motor-sail to Georgetown – but sailing without the engines was out.

    I am ready to depart Charleston. I voted to just GO on to Georgetown at this point. It didn’t matter to me if we motored, or motor-sailed or sailed. At least we could start making SOME progress in heading north toward Baltimore. It was time to move on. The next weather window wouldn’t be until Thursday or Friday. It was 77 miles from our anchorage in Charleston…to Georgetown SC – a full day of motor sailing was in store for us. Pat had our route plotted on the “Captain” software — it’s the little green path from the Charleston Harbor into Winyah Bay — and up to Georgetown.

    It turned out to be a really beautiful day– tho devoid of wind for sailing. We did hoist the main, and had the jib out for awhile…but eventually furled in the jib as it was just luffing.

    Everything seemed pretty uneventful. I saw dolphins and even a sea turtle. Riding the swells became rhythmic. There was one other northbound sailing vessel within our vision, a couple of power boats….and a shrimp boat.

    As we passed by the shoals off of Cape Romain, a line of breakers became visible. It is kind of strange to see the water breaking so far offshore — but our routing software steered us clear of that shoal. Pat headed up into the wind to allow me to take down the main — as the main sail was no longer effective.

    While I was busy bringing down the main sail, Pat was busy stressing back at the helm. He said he had lost steering. He turned the boat into an acute circle. And then appeared to have regained steering. Or so we thought. Maybe it was rip currents around Cape Romain that caused the sensation of losing steerage? In any event, we changed to more of a port tack to begin the final 13 mile leg toward the entrance of Winyah Bay. We seemed to have lost speed on this tack…maybe the winds changed? Maybe currents? Maybe the way the swells are moving the boat? I wasn’t too concerned.

    As we approached the Winyah Bay shipping channel — we would be navigating thru a tricky entrance. The shipping channel was quite narrow PLUS it was surrounded by underwater jetty’s….so you really cannot veer off course. Tides, currents and wave action would make this a bit of a challenge. It was time to change directions with a 90 turn to port in order to enter the channel. I was inside the salon calling out the headings….when I realized that something was wrong. Pat was at the helm turning the wheel frantically. “We have no steering” he yelled out….as he attempted to point the boat back out to open water (as opposed to entering the shipping channel).

    Strangely we could ‘kind of’ point in a starboard direction….but the boat just really wanted to go in circles. Things were happening fast now. I am at the helm…attempting to hold a position with a boat that has lost it’s steering….and trying to avoid breakers and jetty’s…while Pat is attempting to troubleshoot the steering problem. Weeee-doggie! My body parts were quivering….but there was no time or place for panic…Pat races inside…and comes out with a wrench and a string. He is tying a string to the wrench so that he doesn’t loose the tool. I’m sensing that Pat is about to get into a very compromising position (like hanging off the end of the boat)….so I put on my “Safety Director” hat.

    “You’ve GOT to tie on to this boat” I emphasized. From my world….if he is not tethered onto the boat…and fell off…there is NO WAY I could retrieve him without steerage. Don’t want to think about this….back to more positive thoughts.I was trying to watch the swells & point the boat as best as possible….watch the GPS….and keep my 3rd eye on Pat. Yeah. OK now.I could really only head to starboard. Pat is now lying on his belly at the stern of the boat….trying to diagnose the steering problem. He gets up and races back into the cockpit again. “I think I’ve discovered the steering problem…and I think I can fix it.” Words of joy to my ears. He gets another tool….and goes back to the stern.

    “Tie onto the BOAT” I stressed again… Pat goes back and dangles off the stern of the boat again….and I slow the engines so that the swells don’t bang us around quite so much. Suddenly, the steering felt like it had come back. Pat had me do a few test circles…hard turn to port…followed by a hard turn to starboard. The boat responded. Wow…Pat did it…he is downright heroic in my book.

    It turned out that the RAM (the rod that is controlled by the steering hydraulics) came loose from the port rudder — and had to be reconnected. With the RAM being loose — it was not receiving any hydraulic fluid — and thus the rudder was pointed outward — causing us to go in circles if we attempted a port tack…and slowness on a starboard tack.

    What was MORE amazing — is that the NUT (an itsy bitsy NUT) was just sitting on top of the rudder — not connected to anything. How this little NUT could just sit there during all this wave / ocean action is pretty bizarre. Kind of like leaving your wallet on the hood of your car….and driving from Maine to Florida ….and your wallet is still there when you arrive in Florida. Just about that level of miracle.

    Our navigation software (The Captain) — among many other things, displays your boat path. The image of our boat path — should follow the journey legs between each way point. I.e. the green line that represents the path of the boat should be a series of straight lines. As you can see from the image captured by our navigation software — things got a bit crazy just as we were about to enter the shipping channel. A series of small circles (squiggles)….and then a long circular tour back out into the ocean — shows our route as Pat (aka “hero of the day”) restored our steering.

    Sooo, I returned to the nav station – and called out headings…while Pat navigated us back into the shipping channel. Entering Winyah Bay — the waters became calm, and we followed the buoys up to Georgetown — and got a slip at the Harborwalk Marina. Harborwalk is a tiny marina – a one man show type of place. We were thrilled to be in safe harbor.

  • Holding pattern…in Charleston

    Our time is “up” at the Charleston City Marina – and we departed for the adjacent anchorage on the Ashley River — while we wait for the “right” weather window that will allow for northbound travels back to Baltimore, MD.Our plan, is to off shore sail / coastal hop – i.e. a series of day sails that will take us:

    Day 1 – from Charleston SC to Georgetown SC
    Day 2 – from Georgetown SC to Southport NC
    Day 3 – from Southport NC to Wrightsville NC
    Day 4 – from Wrightsville NC to Beaufort NC

    Once we arrive in Beaufort, we will take the intracoastal waterway to Norfolk. Pat would prefer to sail on the “outside” …but this stretch from Beaufort to Norfolk would be approximately 220 miles — and I’m not sure my skill set is ready to captain the boat – as we each would need to take watches. Unfortunately there are no shipping inlets along this stretch — so day sails are OUT. Soooo, the compromise is to do the ICW from Beaufort to Norfolk VA.

    There is one fixed bridge along this stretch of ICW that is recorded as 64′ high – so this could pose potential issues for us (our height clearance is 63.5). We will have to load up with 400 gallons of water…and top off the 90 gallon diesel tank to lower our profile…plus remove all electronics at the top of the mast — before we attempt passage.

    Waiting at anchor in Charleston looks something like:
    Tuesday, April 1 — Depart the Charleston City Marina. Can we say “goodbye” to boat / dock life? Cat Maudy is located on the tip of the “I” Dock…and I’ll take you thru a guided tour of getting to the boathouse and land…here goes:

    A day sail in the Charleston Harbor — accompanied by sailing vessel 5-Star (Hugh & Alison) — allowing us to take pics of each other’s boat.

    Wednesday, April 2 — very windy – to 30 knots….our anchor holds…tho we enjoy sleepless nights watching to make sure! Too windy (and winds in the wrong direction) to travel. We wait.

    Thursday, April 3 — Up at 5 am. Spend 2 hours analyzing weather info. Light winds…too light…and from the north. We dinghy ashore to the City Marina to enjoy (a) showers and (b) I walk across the peninsula for some final sightseeing, shopping and grocery stock up and (c) a sushi dinner with friends Hugh & Alison at The Boathouse in downtown Charleston. Thinking we might depart Friday

    Friday, April 4 — Up at 5am. Analyze weather info. Dense fog in the AM till 11. Very strong winds after that….from the south. Rough seas….turbulent air…strong storms rolling thru. We decide to wait another day. What’s with this weather? Either tornado style winds…or nothing at all. We stay on anchor all day. I’m getting stir crazy.

    Saturday, April 5 — still feisty winds…from the south…rough seas. We analyze weather information for hours. Aiii…we’ll keep waiting. Maybe tomorrow we can depart. We dingy to shore for (a) showers and (b) supplies. I head off walking across town to re-stock up on grapefruit, apples and dried fruit. Strong storms approaching.

    The dingy motor won’t start. Pat tries a zillion ways to get the motor to start…but nada. She needs service. Oh boy. The Charleston City Marina calls TowBoat US for us…but TowBoat US doesn’t answer the phone. Fortunately, someone at the City Marina had a cell phone# for the local operator of TowBoat US….and we made contact. Kindof odd that they don’t respond to VHF calls or phone calls eh?

    Anyway, a TowBoat US captain arrives in 45 minutes– and they tow us about 200 yards to anchored Cat Maudy. The TowBoat US captain tells us a story about how earlier in the day a sailing vessel lost engine power near the jetty entrance to the Charleston Harbor. He said that he refused to help the guy cuz he had already worked 5 hours that day. Hmmm….I try to imagine myself in a dicey situation…and TowBoat US refuses to help you (or answer VHF or phone). Glad to have TowBoat US arrive to tow us to our dinghy…but Yup…I’m a bit conflicted about TowBoat US at the moment.

  • Captain Wuus sails offshore…twice!

    On nearly a perfect sailing day with 15-20 knots of winds from the southwest, we departed the Charleston Harbor for a day of off shore sailing. A first for me…Captain Wuus. Ocean sailing. Deep breath here. OK – I can do this. The “O-C-E-A-N” word that is.

    Pat did a phenomenal job in selecting a day with very minimal ocean swells, and steady southerly winds. (aka he knows it had better be ideal for me!) It was a most memorable sail. We sailed straight out of the Charleston Harbor past Fort Sumter…and then along the jetty’s in the shipping channel eastbound for approximately 12 miles.

    At mile 10 – I could no longer see land. While initially this was a tad unnerving – I discovered the really cool part is all of the dolphins who track with your boat. The dolphins seem to let you know that you can relax — you’ve got friends out there.

    Some offshore observations:
    · The sea-state (surf, wave action) tends to be most pronounced when you leave the harbor. Probably has something to do with shallow waters and currents. The further offshore, the seas became more relaxed / steady.

    · The winds tend to be stronger and more gusty closer to land. The further we traveled offshore, the more steady the winds became. The seas were actually more enjoyable then sailing on the Chesapeake Bay — probably due to the shallow waters of the bay can make for choppy waters

    · Trans-Atlantic shipping freighters travel A LOT faster than shipping vessels in the Chesapeake Bay. Maybe they have to put their brakes on in the bay? These vessels coming into the channel heading for Charleston are easily doing 20+ knots. They blew right by us – and we were cruising under sail at 11 knots. I was watching the water action at the bow of one of these shipping vessels, and noticed what appeared to be jumping fish. Looking closely — it was our dolphin friends — putting on a sea world act of jumping and flipping in front of this fast moving shipping vessel. Very entertaining! I tried to get this dolphin excitement on camera….but my camera has a delay…and I kept missing the action. Oh well.

    Pat selected a second day for us to go offshore — and the weather was similar to our first day offshore. The winds may have been a bit stronger – in the 20-25 knot range. Again winds from the southwest. This seems to produce minimal ocean swells. It was a great sail again. I saw a shark this time….maybe a shark in distress? Noticed a large object that seemed to float at an angle. As we approached – I could see it was a fin – but not straight up. The shark seemed to be floating near the surface (he was big – 15-20 feet!) at a bit of an angle. Not fond of sharks. I was ready to see my dolphin friends again.

    When sailing offshore – we have two added safety rules.1. mandatory to wear an offshore PFD (self inflates) at all times 2. always remain tethered to the boat. Each of our PFD’s has a 5′ tether line – allowing attachment on one end to the PFD…and the other end to any fixed object or jackline. Pat has setup a jackline (blue line that is connected around the perimeter of the boat) – so that if you have to go forward on deck — you are constantly attached to the boat.

  • Tornados hit Charleston

    We have managed to experience some violent weather while dockside in Charleston. Let’s start with the tornado on Saturday, 3/15. Just prior, tornadoes had done some hefty damage further inland to Atlanta GA — but Atlanta seemed so far away from us. It just wasn’t on my radar. Born-n-raised in upstate NY — we don’t have tornadoes. So, I have to admit I was a bit naive when it came to “Tornado Watch” and “Tornado Warning” weather alerts. When Pat and I heard that we should find a large building and hide in the basement….we kind of just looked at each other and said “huh”??? Living on a boat docked in the potential path of a tornado….might not be the kind of shelter the weather weasels were referring to – but that’s where we were.

    First, we watched the barometer fall….basically DROP to a REALLY low number (995). Not a good sign. Ok, next observation. Most of the other folks living on their boats at the marina — were nowhere to be found. And lastly, the weather pics I was able to see online JUST before weather arrived — had bright red blotches heading our way. Time to turn off the computer (after I snap these images of course!).

    So, Pat and I readied ourselves. We got out our foul weather gear (jackets) from the closet, and put a flashlight in the pocket of each jacket (in case Pat & I got separated). Not really sure what the point of that preparation was….but it seemed like we were “doing something” — so I didn’t ask too many questions. By 8:30PM, the sky was filled with lightning, thunder….and finally hail. Sheets of rain came down in horizontal blasts….and then….the winds came. It was incredible. I couldn’t have escaped along the dock – even if I wanted to. Would have been blown right into the Charleston harbor.

    Our wind readings went from 15knots to 55 knots in about 3 seconds. It felt like the boat was lifting up – and all of a sudden I became VERY concerned. We put our jackets on.

    And within the course of no more than 3 minutes….the weather was over. The winds stopped. The hail & rain stopped. And the thunder and lightening continued on by us. We had missed a direct hit by the tornado. Tornadoes did touchdown on James Island — less than 2 miles from our boat. I can assure you — that a boat would NOT be a safe place in a tornado. We took our jackets off now.

    One final note….Soxy, our cat, didn’t seem to be too concerned thru any of this. Soxy – takes a snooze thru the tornado warning

  • Coast Guard to the dinghy rescue…

    I’m definitely no dinghy design expert. But here are some observations:
    1. buy the biggest and BEST dinghy (most likely to stay to stay afloat) you can possibly afford.
    2. your dinghy gets you back and forth to shore…so make sure it can handle some waves and wind eh? Now, go back to # 1 and repeat

    More high winds today….up to 55 miles per hour. Our instruments are already registering 40 knots. We noticed a Coast Guard boat racing by Cat Maudy. This is pretty unusual – since this is a no-wake zone and they usually travel very slowly near the marina. Not today. They were on a rescue mission.

    A person on a dinghy from a nearby anchored boat was trying to get to the City Marina dock. Less than 100 yards. They didn’t make it. The dinghy capsized in the high winds – and the person had to be rescued by the Coast Guard. Below are some pictures of the Coast Guard recovering the failed “cheap-O” dinghy. Time for an upgrade!

  • Mast climbing adventures…

    It was a rare calm day, and Pat had to install the tri-color light onto the top of the mast. This light fell off (and broke) when Cat Maudy had a brief encounter with the top of a bridge along the intracoastal. Unfortunately, the NEW tri-color light, was of a slightly different design from the OLD tri-color light. This meant that more than 1 trip to the top of the mast would be required. Three trips to be exact. Pat was lookin’ like an ol’ pro going up the mast. I had him secured with the halyard and a second safety line – and equipped with my Rambo “powerdrill” to do all the heavy lifting.

    The third trip up the mast was the “charm” – and the new tri-color light was successfully wired and installed at the top of the mast.

    Now, it’s my turn. I decided this sure looks like fun. Ok – I didn’t go all of the way to the top of the mast, but I have to admit it was pretty cool bein’ UP – even if it is only barely halfway. The most amazing part, is that while hanging out in the bosun’s chair – sittin atop of the world…the dolphins whom have never more than just come up for air…put on a SHOW for me. That’s what I believed anyway.

    It was like being in front row seats at Sea World! Two dolphins were doing their “Flipper” routine — completely coming out of the water – in pairs, arching…and then diving. Again and again. It was a magical moment – and I’m gonna get further up the mast next time!

  • Dragging anchor in 40 knots of winds…

    The instruments were really reading up to 40 knots….Visualize how 40 knots feels. The boat shakes. It is very windy here — average winds in the mid 20’s, with gusts to 40! The winds are from the East – so they push the water up from the Atlantic Ocean…into the Charleston Harbor…and up the Ashley River! I have to get in a LOW position when walking along the dock – to avoid getting blown off the dock. Small Person Advisory.

    While doing some computer work, we looked out the salon windows – to a rather odd sight. Two sailboats – rafted together, and anchored not far from us — are now dragging anchor (due to the extreme winds) and are being blown up the Ashley River toward the James Island Bridge. Woa! No one appears to be on either of the boats – so Pat radio’s to the City Marina for help.

    The City Marina sends out one of it’s boats to check out the situation – and then calls in the Coast Guard. Moral of this story – don’t leave your boat unattended AND rafted to another boat anchored on a windy day!

  • EMS to the dock rescue….

    Grace, is a Chris Craft steel hulled motor yacht – and is moored adjacent to Cat Maudy. Nick, the owner of Grace – is a lovely person who lives on nearby James Island. Nick’s son, who attends the Citadel (the “southern” version of West Point) – was hosting an afternoon spring break boat party with friends and acquaintances. What started out as a college-kid boat party on Grace – Tuesday afternoon, turned quickly to an emergency situation. One of the femmes accidentally stepped thru Grace’s skylight – getting a deep cut from the glass, and her leg jammed between two metal rods (that were designed to prevent someone from falling thru).

    Thus her leg was stuck….she was stuck….and had a deep wound in her calf. EMS was summoned. More like the entire City of Charleston Fire & EMS department (30+) showed up. They came out with a huge ‘jaws of life’ hydraulic steel cutter….and snapped the rod that pinned her leg to the boat. Kudos to her college friends who kept her calm during the ordeal….and of course kudos to EMS for the rescue!

    Nick’s son (the party host), tho had a problem. He had to ‘splain all of this to his dad. Rumor has it that Citadel attendees were not allowed off campus that day. Oopsie!

  • Earl lives large on 8 remaining lives, and plans for the future.

    Just 3 months ago while sailing offshore, Earl was on death row. But, he came back. With one of those 9 lives used up somewhere in North Carolina, Earl now rules Cat Maudy with a diet of 3-5 cans of wet food per day. He shares some of this with Soxy – our other cat. He also enjoys daily rub-downs, and his perch on a comforter, in the windows of the salon.
    But alas, Earl was a tad concerned about the current state of the economy. A recession could limit the food supply – and of course this would be completely unacceptable. Earl is all about food.

    Soooo, Earl put in all of his good vibes and wishful thinking, focused much of his thoughts on “Chicken of the Sea”…. And wanted a recession proof idea for ensuring the food supply would continue …irregardless of the value of the dollar against the euro, the fact that the stock market was crumbling, Christmas toys are tainted with poison (oh my!), a crazy man lives in the White House, no one can afford health care, and the fact that the Chinese would soon own all of the homes the Americans foreclosed on.

    Wow. Earl is on top of current events. What a mess this world was in…and Earl decided it was time to do something about it. Kitty style.Earl, aka “King Earl” laid out an elaborate plan. First, he would get the “female-one” (Jane) to stock up on brown rice from the asian food stores. With a big boat pantry and lots of plastic storage bins – it would be easy to stockpile bags of rice — and have at least 1-2 years supply on hand. Brown rice mixes nicely with any of King Earl’s favorite meat dishes.

    Next, Earl willed the “big-guy” (aka Captain Pat) to acquire a rod. Not just any rod, but a rod with a string attached. One might refer to this as a deep sea fishing pole. Being a savvy shopper, Earl encouraged Pat to use eBay to find a fancy-dancy fishing pole — on the cheap. Earl doesn’t mess with retail price or coupons.

    Earl was thinking fish thoughts – and had me research what type of saltwater fish and HOW MANY could be caught per day. He especially liked the big quantities such as:Sea Bass – 20 per person per dayBlue Fish – 15 per person per daySheepshead – 20 per person per dayEarl liked looking at these pictures, and felt confident that we would have no problem catching the daily limits.

    While Earl was pleased with the progress so far (brown rice stockpile, purchase of fishing pole) – he remained a tad concerned that we might not know what we were doing with this getup. The rod and reel have arrived – and we were proud to style these for King Earl. Observe the “fishing position” modeled by the First Mate & Captain below. Upon closer observation, no string (line) or lure exists. OK….Details. But we were lookin’ good – and Earl was well on his way to a lifetime supply of food!

  • Reconnecting with Cat Maudy…

    Back and forth between Charleston SC and Silver Spring, MD — I packed as efficiently as possible, and still managed to have 3 large & heavy bags of stuff along with my tennis rackets. A suitcase filled primarily with Trader Joes food and specialty items only found at the local Asian food stores (gotta have my bulk dried foods and sesame oil!)…my skates and skate gear, and one last bag of laptop, books, CD’s and any item that wouldn’t fit in the other two bags. Wowie-Zow. This is packing light. I’ll be traveling south to Charleston one last time on land…on the midnight Amtrak express train – and expect to arrive in Charleston at 5AM.

    Sat next to a delightful woman named Anna. Anna lives in the Isle of Palms, and makes frequent Amtrak trips north to Philadelphia PA to care for her 93 year old mother. We shared many stories about caring for our 90 year old parents — including stocking the freezer full of foods, ensuring they can use their computers for emails, and just enjoying simple ‘time’ with the parentals! Life is good. Anna is a retired computer geek from the Chicago area – who started her second career as a watercolor artist after retirement. Her work is currently featured at the Seagull Gallery in Mt. Pleasant. I am planning to visit this gallery on a sunny day via bicycle — a combined sporting-artismo event if you will.

    Well, by 11PM, everyone on the train was snoring…not me. I remained wide awake…listening to all of the snoring ….sigh. Despite a late start out of DC, the train made up time – and arrived on schedule in Charleston. Pat picked me up at the train station, and we arrived at the City Marina just in time for sunrise. It was beautiful.By 8AM – I crashed. So much for sleeping on the midnite train….I would be catching zzzzz’s for the bulk of the day on Monday. It’s now boat-time.

    The temperatures have improved considerably since the last time I was in Charleston. It’s T-shirt and short weather now. Having ‘thermal-ed UP’ just 3 days prior – to skate in 18 degree weather in Baltimore…T-shirt and shorts is a very pleasant change.

  • Charleston…boat repairs…and crack addicts…

    North….Two weeks back in Maryland – land-based, filled with work, work, work…taking care of my Dad, family stuff, hooking up with a few friends…and a swim debut.That’s right – swim. My least enjoyable sport. But, since I am in training for a sprint-TRI – I guess I need to find my way back into the swim lane. 3 days at the Martin Luther King Swim Center — and I was up to 40 laps (sidestroke…the only stroke I know how). OK, I guess I can do this as long as I don’t have to put my face underwater. I packed my swimsuit for Charleston…just in case a swim opportunity arises.

    …meets South ….My road trip to Charleston was uneventful for a change (whew!). I made 2 stops…first stop at the Welcome Center in North Carolina. Spent an hour updating a document – and sending emails. Next stop at EXIT 181 in South Carolina. Sound familiar? Yep, it is the same exit and Hess Station that possessed my VW Beetle a month prior. Had to rid the spot of bad Ju-Ju — but just to be safe, kept my keys, purse, cell phone and food on me at all times – and rolled down the windows just for added assurance.Arrived at the City Marina at approximately 3:30PM…to a beautiful 70 degree day. Decided to go on a small walk….which morphed into a brisk high-energy walk along the perimeter of the Charleston Harbor to the opposite side of the peninsula. Two hours later…I returned to Cat Maudy – completely invigorated.

    It was time to do some sightseeing in Charleston – and take my husband out for exercise at the same time. With me on skates, and him on the bicycle, we left the City Marina for a cruise around the peninsula and an opportunity to view some of the historic homes that line the harbor. Words won’t do this any justice – so I’ll just let these pictures (and subtitles) do the talking…

    Meet Charlie Siriski
    Charlie is the high-tech welding man who fixed our rigging – and in the process became a delightful friend as well. Pat and Charlie had already made the “Italian connection” – and when Charlie started talking about food choices that he and his wife Kay make (She makes her own soy milk, tofu) – and they eat “greens” for breakfast….I knew we would get along fabulously!

    We had decided to get together for sushi on Saturday night – at a place called Osaka – located on James Island — a few minute drive from the City Marina. Osaka Restaurant 100 Folly Road Charleston, SC 29412

    Charlie (from Charleston area) and his wife Kay (originally from Michigan) make you feel like you’re family. We sat down for sushi at 8:30…and proceeded to hear about Charlie’s experience with FIVE GUYS ( a Washington DC based hamburger and fries chain that has recently added a restaurant to the Charleston area). Apparently, Charlie and Pat had an earlier conversation about how decadent a burger and fries are (I think Pat is tired of eating healthy!)….and sure enuf – Charlie went to FIVE GUYS to experience the burger and fries deal. He apparently loved it. So much for that healthy food conversation we had a few hours prior.
    Irregardless, the sushi was phenomenal at Osaka – and very reasonably priced. We will be making another visit here.

    …with gale force winds, I decided that I ABSOLUTELY MUST combine exercise with my other favorite pastime…FOOD. Being on a dried fruit “kick” – I wanted to experiment with more fruit varieties – and thought maybe I would have good luck at the Whole Foods Market located in Mt. Pleasant.

    Going there… on my bicyle…was a breeze…literally. I was flying. Obviously I had an excellent tailwind carried me across the peninsula and over the Route 17 bridge. I barely broke a sweat – and was passing cars and busses along the way. I didn’t even need to downshift going UP the Route 17 bridge. Soon, I was going so fast on the descent into Mt. Pleasant – that I had to hit the brakes a ton — just to avoid going airborne when my wheels hit irregular surfaces on the bridge.

    I’m guessing it was a 10 mile ride total to the Whole Foods Market. I lollygagged for about an hour in the Whole Foods bulk food section…before hopping onto my bike for the ride back to Charleston. As soon as I started the ramp back UP the bridge toward Charleston – I realized what a huge tailwind I must have had coming in the opposite direction. The headwind that I was about to experience was pretty strong. Digital signs were flashing on the entrance ramps “Caution – Severe Crosswinds”. I know they meant “headwind”.

    I had to downshift to SECOND GEAR (I never downshift below THIRD gear)…in order to make the ascent….and then PEDAL HARD just to take the descent into Charleston. OK…I was lovin’ every minute!

    Thanks Emma. I’m feelin’ like I need to RUN today. THANKS for getting me registered in a TRIATHLON. I haven’t run in nearly 9 years since the 1999 NYC Marathon….so my pace was incredibly slow – nearly in reverse (sigh). I managed to run across the peninsula – a whopping 3 miles….of course to YET another FOOD STORE….and then walked back.

    The “Derrick live-aboard” situation was rapidly deteriorating. It became obvious that we had a crack-addict on board. It also became obvious that he was far LESS knowledgeable about boats, than he portrayed. We were investing more and more money to fix his mistakes… It was time for Derrick to be “set free”.

  • Becoming wary of repair crew….

    After 6 weeks of being land-based in Maryland, I was looking forward to finally rejoining Pat and boat life on Cat Maudy. The weather on Saturday 1/12/08 was perfect for my 9 hour drive from Silver Spring MD. The original plan was to take the Amtrak from DC to Charleston – but due to a recent bout with the flu – I preferred to avoid more flu season on the train with a bunch of potentially ill people. Thus, I’m driving, solo.

    My VW Beetle was loaded. Bicycle, computer, skates, food — soy, brown rice, quinoa & fruit….along with 5 bags of crew mate Derrick’s “stuff”.

    Derrick, our last minute crew who joined up for the sail south in early November – was still on board. We had worked out an “arrangement” – where he did a bunch of work on the boat…in trade for food and board. He was trying to get his footing….and we thought we could help him get a fresh start – in Charleston SC.

    But, all was not well with this arrangement. Captain Pat noticed discrepancies in Derrick’s stories…how he had worked on Tiger Wood’s yacht in Florida, why he left Florida, why his parents won’t have anything to do with him. I’m a sucker for a good storyline. Not Pat. Pat saw the fissures…and soon we would both be onto the “real” Derrick, the crack addict, who was living on our boat.

    For now, I am southward bound on I-95….and all was going well until I decided to fuel up at Exit 181 in South Carolina at the Hess gas station. That’s where my trusted volkswagon beetle became possessed. While filling up the tank – and with keys, purse, cell phone resting on the car seat – the doors suddenly locked, locking me OUT.

    This is what you call a PANIC moment. No cell phone, no keys, no money, no food, no water….nothing. I had to rely on the kindness of strangers to help me out. Borrowing a few cell phones…I managed to contact Pat – and he hopped in the Jeep for a 3 hour drive to Exit 181 – with a spare key for the Beetle. In the meantime…I needed food and water (a Wadsworth cannot go 3 hours without food!)… Waiting…waiting….waiting…. Now approximately an hour into sitting on the hood of my VW Beetle – I looked around for some South Carolina ex-con who might be able to break into my friggin’ car. Noticed a tow truck driver filling up on diesel. I asked him if he knew how to break into a car – in my best blonde impression. Whew….he did. Within 20 minutes of break-in magic — he unlocked the door for me (slightly damaging the door too – but hey – I didn’t care at this point!)….and I was back on my way to Charleston.

    The car spent the next 2 weeks at the Mount Pleasant Low Country Volkswagon dealership – to fix the computer sensor problem that caused the doors to lock without notice. Moral of this story…don’t trust computer chips in cars…and keep your keys on you at all times!

    Retrospect.
    A boat needs to REALLY go south for the winter….not Charleston SC — SOUTH. Now, I realize that Charleston was selected because it allowed me to easily travel back and forth to Maryland for work and family issues….but I can still learn from all of this. It would be nice if I was independently wealthy, retired or did not have a fear of flying – instead I need to work, and I travel only by land or water.

    Sooo, going between Maryland and Charleston SC has been exhausting, and I have now lived out of a suitcase for over 2 months. The good thing, is that I realize how few items I really need in my life….a few clothes, inline skates, laptop and my health food (brown rice, quinua, soy….fresh fruits and veggies)….everything beyond that is EXTRA. The tough part…is when I’m not on the boat – I don’t really have a place to call home. Cry me a river.

    Reality.
    With that said, I was looking forward to being “home” on Cat Maudy. Then, I stepped into our boat. And…proceeded to fall down the steps into the galley. A calamity-Jane at best.

    Cutting & re-glassing the steps became a high priority project for Derrick. He needed to cut, and fix the steps so that there is enough room for a human foot before it slides off the edge. Thank you 😉

    Next boat observation…the smell. Condensation, moisture, mold everywhere….temperatures outside in the 30’s and inside with 3 space heaters running in the upper 50’s / low 60’s. Monsoon style rains….wind….and wetness like you’ve never imagined. What’s up with that?(31 degrees outside…61 degrees inside)

    The deal is — when it is cold and wet outside….and you are heating the boat inside….you never open it up because it’s too cold and wet outside. Then condensation forms everywhere….and eventually everything turns to mold…the walls, bedding. Clothing…everything! Now, don’t get me wrong — this is not a problem unique to Cat Maudy. Every boat owner at the City Marina that we came in contact with – is having the same problem. So, we have to just deal with it. Wipe down the inside of the boat with Simple Green or Vinegar…including all foot lockers and cubbies….and bag up everything not being used – in airtight vacuum bags to prevent further molding. A relatively monumental task.

    Sadly, many items were trashed due to the mold….and on one of the 3 total dry days while I was in Charleston for my 2 week stay — I did approximately 25 loads of wash – with about a gallon of Clorox – to try to kill the mold and simultaneously turn everything we own into a tie-dye look. Oops…

    A clothes drying day – everything is laid out on the hulls & bridge deck for some sunshine.After looking at ALL of these clothes…I realize more downsizing is necessary in my life!

    Soaked pillows….taking in some rays and temperatures in the upper 40’s

    Cat Maudy goes Healthy Eatin’
    After 6 weeks of staring at land based TV in the evenings – watching the FOOD network, Iron Chef…and the Travel Channel….along with my own personal commitment to HEALTY eating….all of this had to be instilled onto Cat Maudy.

    Now, I realize Pat and Derrick were quite happy with fried foods, sweets, crackers and peanut butter…eating out at 5 Guys for hamburgers and fries…but those days are over now. New foods have arrived…and they include:
    Spinach, yellow squash, mushrooms, zucchini,
    Tomatoes, cucumber, onions, Tofu
    Fresh fish (Tilapia, wild salmon, flounder),
    Brown rice, sweet brown rice, barley, lentils, and quinoa (introduced to me by my friend Meryl!), Dried fruits and nuts
    Fresh fruits – apples, pears, berries, kiwi, oranges, grapefruit…

    I spent my first few hours upon arrival – purging the Pantry and Refridgerator of the “got to go” foods (heavily processed, high sodium, high sugar…just about everything!)…and then made a stop at the local grocery stores (Teeter & Publix) to begin the transition toward healthy foods. My goal is to eventually rid of all processed food…but we’re not there yet.

    Art…and food — aka the presentation…the aura – is my new “thing”.

    Chef Jane’s new entries include:

    Pan grilled chicken in lemon pepper and sun dried tomatoes, leaf spinach w/corn & orzo salad tossed with a balsamic vinaigrette. Slices of pears and kiwi fruit to garnish….

    Spinach salad w/ fresh tomatoes, red onion and fat free feta cheese – with a yogurt dressing

    Pan grilled salmon cooked slowly in a low-sodium soy sauce served on a bed of baby spinach along with red tomatoes, fresh cucumber, corn, red onion, Bartlett pears and dried Michigan cherries topped with a drizzle of yogurt dressing garnished with slices of whole wheat pita bread and eggplant hummus

    total calories: 315

    Years ago I was thrilled to have a dinner of popcorn…followed by m&m’s….wow…what happened???

    Rendezvous with sailor friends from Germany
    We met Heiko and Jutta while at port in Baltimore. Heiko and Jutta are a lovely German couple – hard core sailors (live on the cheap, know how to fix everything themselves, extremely self-reliant, and sail everywhere). They noticed our German made anchor and thought we might be German (nope…but Cat Maudy is German built)….and the friendship began. They translated all of the words on our control panel – which are all in German – to English. It helps knowing what all of the buttons on your boat mean.

    Pat noticed on Heiko & Jutta’s website that they were arriving into the Charleston area – and sent them an email. We hooked up and they joined us for dinner on Cat Maudy. We got to hear about their adventures up north in Newfoundland….getting close to icebergs….and how to use iceberg ice in rum & cokes. Cool!

    Exercise in Charleston
    My exercise regimen was somewhat limited due to the inclement weather. I did manage to get in a few skate workouts at the James Island County Park…and discovered the thrill of bicycling over the Route 17 bridge into Mount Pleasant. I also hit tennis balls one day in the local park with my friend Cindy.

    In addition, my stepdaughter Emma talked me into doing the Columbia Iron Girl Triathlon with her (and I dragged my skate sista Jill into this mix as well!) The triathlon is scheduled for August…I don’t know how to swim. Oh my.

    James Island County Park is just a few minutes from the City Marina — tho only accessible from a car. Once in the park – they have designated bicycle paths – tho I don’t really like these – so I just skate in the park roads. The park roads are nicely paved – and the loop is just under 1.5 miles. I have to figure out ways to challenge myself here and not get too bored with the small loop. Sometimes I skate the loop doing small speed intervals….and other times I try to work on my crossover technique. Or, I just try to avoid the dogs in the park…a lot of people take their dogs here. The coolest part of the loop is the section near the pond – which is lined by palm trees.
    I skip the bike path section…go straight to the park roads for skating

    Ever since we first saw the Route 17 (Ravenel) bridge when we arrived into the Charleston Harbor on Thanksgiving Day…I wanted to ride my bicycle over that bridge. The bridge has great architecture, and only in slow motion (bike or walking) can you really absorb it’s design and the view of Charleston. Walking is too slow for my taste — so it was time to figure out how to bike on that thing. The bridge was built in 2005 – and was designed with a pedestrian / bike way completely separate from the traffic lanes. How delightful. So, I biked out of the City Marina…along Wentworth Ave – over to East Bay…and up East Bay until…sure enuf — the bike way for the bridge appeared. It is a pretty good haul up the bridge – so the workout was wonderful. I stopped a bunch to take pictures – so the workout got ‘paused’ frequently — and the descent down into Mt Pleasant on the other side was high speed. Got to test out my brakes!

    Just getting on the Bridge bike way from downtown Charleston

    Work Life goes on…and on….

    Despite all of boat life duties….and attempting to explore Charleston, exercise…eat healthy…working for our clients still consumes the bulk of our days. Generally, we are up at 5am…and work until 9pm…with all of the other activities taking away little slices throughout the day.Some people dread retirement…I always hear “what would I do with all of that time?” I can assure you…I would LOVE to have all that time to fill up with all of the stuff that I really prefer to do. Being self employed, the likelihood that I’ll ever retire is slim to none…so for us, it’s all about carving in everything that you want to do each day.A little philosophical perspective…

    Restoration of Cat Maudy

    Cat Maudy hasn’t left the City Marina dock since she arrived on Thanksgiving. That’s right — no sailing…nada. Derrick is currently living aboard — doing a ton of manual labor for us. Thus, Cat Maudy is undergoing a LOT of repairs — and the laundry list of Cat Maudy completed tasks include:

    Dingy Davits installed
    Solar Panels installed & wired
    Pantry area designed / fiber-glassed and painted
    Forward holds sanded and painted
    Topside sanded and prepped for painting (waiting for better weather to paint!)

    Hulls sanded and buffedTang – welded / jib rigging restored
    Anchor arm extended
    Rebuilt companionway steps
    Installed new cushions in salon
    Re-rigged the main sheet on the boomDe-molded everything!

    And the TO DO list is just as large:
    Get second refrigeration unit running
    Re-install electronics at masthead
    Reinstalling the water maker
    Paint topside
    Interior sanding / painting in galley and forward berths
    Salon flooring (remove carpet!)

  • Charleston at last – for Thanksgiving


    Isle of Palms, to Charleston SC

    I awoke to fisherman activity at the fuel dock. Turns out the fuel dock doubles as a bait shop. All of the fishermen down here wear camouflage hunting outfits and every boat comes equipped with 2 sport fisherman (camouflaged) and a black or golden lab. 50% of the labs are missing a limb…ie 3 legged. This scene qualifies as ‘red neck’ in my book. I’m not sure the purpose of the full camouflage – I guess they think they are hiding from the fish. Ya know, “shhhhh don’t tell the fish we’re here…”

    The winds and tidal currents are considerable today. We inched toward our final 65′ fixed bridge. I spotted a measuring stick on this one — and it said 67 feet. We “should” be good – but you never know if these sticks are calibrated – so we proceeded cautiously just to be sure. Pat maneuvered ever so slooooly…..and after a few agonizing minutes….I gave the ‘all clear’.
    Unfortunately, the timing of making the fixed bridge at low tide, meant we had to wait nearly an hour for the final swing bridge approximately a mile away to open. Hurry up…and wait. It’s all good.

    We snaked our way thru the inter-coastal with swamp grasses, shoals and surprisingly shallow water in the channel – out to the Charleston Harbor. Dolphins appear again.

     

    We crossed the harbor, and headed up the Ashley River to the City Marina docks. We repeatedly hailed the City Marina — but no response. It’s Thanksgiving after all – and everyone is home with family eating turkey. I suggested that we just grab any old space that we see along the dock – and tie up. The tidal currents are strong here, and I was somewhat in a rush to get Earl to yet another emergency vet (he has stopped eating and drinking now). We tied up on the “mega dock” where all of the super-sized yachts are moored. It’s Charleston SC. We’re here. We made it.

    I carefully placed Earl in a cushioned box….and ran off the dock with him – to catch the first available cab. No time to get familiar with Charleston. Earl is very sick. It’s Thanksgiving – and there is only one vet clinic open. The lovely cab driver drove me to the emergency vet – and waited for Earl and I. Again, the vet found nothing wrong with Earl. She gave him more fluids, and antibiotics, and special food. I had to feed him via syringe, until he starts eating on his own. I will gladly nurse my buddy back to health.

    We set out on foot to find thanksgiving dinner. It is 6PM, and nothing is open in downtown Charleston. Except for 1 pizza joint that caters to college students. Pizza it is. And Thanksgiving dinner never tasted better.

  • The race to save Earl


    Waccamaw River to Isle of Palms SC

    I spent the night wrapped up tight with my ailing cat, Earl. He is going south faster than we are. His respiratory is not sounding good…I’m just trying to keep him warm now.

    Awoke at 6:15am…to the sounds of shotguns – everywhere! Ok, it’s a bit freaky to be out in the middle of the Waccamaw River, anchored, with no other boats or humans around – and hear shotguns everywhere. Fingers crossed that Dick Cheney wasn’t here with his hunting friends. At first I thought they were shooting at us – as we were the only boat anchored. We finally decided they were shooting bird…probably tomorrow’s Thanksgiving dinner. Please don’t let any bird fly over our boat. Time to pull up anchor and leave the Waccamaw.

    We left anchor at about 8:15am…with 5 miles to go before reaching the 65′ fixed bridge. Winds started kicking up, and the current was tricky too. Glad Captain Pat was working his magic at the helm. We inched VERY slowly toward the bridge.

    Scanned the bridge pilings for ANY sort of measuring stick. None. Nada. OK, it’s Russian roulette time. This would be a tad trickier than any of the other bridges so far, due to winds and current…and of course no measuring stick to guide us. We were exactly in between the highest and lowest portion of the tides. WHEW….a collective exhale now….we made it under this bridge with about 2 feet to spare.

    The goal for today is to get to the Isle of Palms Marina – approximately 60 miles from our anchorage on the Waccamaw. Not sure if this is do-able – but if the currents are in our favor – we can make between 7-8 knots.

    We have to pass thru 3 very narrow land cuts. The first cut is 5 miles….then the North Santee River….followed by the second land cut which lasts for 10 miles….and the last land cut is 28 miles. All narrow passages, and lots of swampy sea grass lands.Most of the terrain looks like this picture to the left, swamps on either side of the channel. The channel is only about 9-12 feet deep. Venture too far to starboard or port, and you’ll find yourself in 2 feet of water.
    Sunset on the approach to Isle of Palms.

    I found the hurricane regulations fairly amusing along the ICW. Basically, if a hurricane shows up and you are unlucky enuf to be in the vicinity of this sign – then you should know that the bridge tender has gone home – and no one will open the bridge for you. OK….got it. I’ll try to remember to avoid navigation in narrow shallow channels during a hurricane when the bridge tender has gone home to be with his family. Got it. Thank you.

    This is now the 2nd time this Coast Guard boat has passed us (first time on the Waccamaw). We have to hold onto all of the dishes now b4 they fall out of the cabinets…he makes a rockin’ wake.
    We pushed to get to the Isle of Palms Marina – which made it a 60 mile trip along the ICW. Tied up at the fuel dock at approximately 6pm. Exhausted.

  • PAC Man with the Tram golfers


    Myrtle Beach to Waccamaw River, SC

    Today we would try to make it thru a total of 10 bridges — six of them fixed height 65′ bridges. If we’re lucky, we’ll finish the day in Georgetown SC – with only 60+- miles til Charleston. Shortly after leaving the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club we were upon our first fixed bridge for the day, followed immediately by a swing bridge that fortunately opens “on demand” (i.e. you don’t have to wait for an “on the hour” opening)

    In about 10 miles, we would be upon a series of 4 fixed bridges, a 67′ cable tram and multiple swing bridges. Wow. Busy morning. As we would approach each fixed bridge, Derrick would take the binoculars and try to find the “measuring stick”. The measuring stick would tell us how high or low the tide was in relation to the height of the bridge.

    Here’s what I’ve learned in my 2 days on the ICW. Some bridges have a dysfunctional measuring stick (i.e. it tells you you’ve got 68′ clearance — but it’s really more like 64′)….other bridges seem to have a well calibrated measuring stick (65′ = 65′)…and yet others want you to just play Russian roulette – i.e. no measuring stick. The bridges we came under today were either well calibrated…or of the Russian roulette vintage. Here’s the routine. Once a measuring stick was sighted, I would lay on my back in the forward most portion of the hulls – staring up at the mast…as Captain Pat sloooooooooowly maneuvered the mast to a position just before the bridge. I would then have to decide if we thought there was enuf clearance for the boat to continue forward. Technically, you should see the mast…and not the bridge…and then you know you are clear. Pat is back at the helm…sweating bullets….until he hears the “all clear”.

    What about the 67′ cable tram. It’s a tram alright. What is the tram for? Well of course – it’s for sending golfers in Myrtle Beach from the east side of the golf course on the intercoastal – to the west side of the golf course. Now, when these trams go across the intercoastal, the tram cars drop FAR BELOW the 67′ cable….so, it’s like a PAC MAN video game for sailors with tall masts – trying to miss (or take out) the trams. The task is to get beyond the tram cars without taking them out with your mast. Seems like a bit of a design flaw by the Army Corp of Engineers….but hey, not nearly as bad as the New Orleans levee system. I digress.

    Government Secrets:Forget everything you are about to read and see. It’s just an illusion.This is a ‘beam me up Scotty moment’. I was surprised that the picture even came out — fully expecting it to be automatically erased by ET (the Extra Terrestrial). But, here it is — just beyond Myrtle Beach proper and the golf courses — the Starship Enterprise.

    * South of Myrtle Beach, cookie cutter homes and more lawn ornaments, we entered the
    * Waccamaw River – which snakes thru 30+ miles of untouched swampland.
    * Scenes from the Waccamaw
    * And a huge tsunami wake from this Coast Guard ship

    Within 5 miles of our final fixed bridge of the day, we realized that it would be precisely highest of HIGH tide at the time of our attempted passage. Hmmm….a bit risky. Considering our very limited clearance at low tide….we decided against trying to make it to Georgetown (just on the other side of the bridge) – and ended up anchoring on the north side of a small island on the Waccamaw.

    For some reason, Earl is going ‘south again. Not sure what is going on with my little buddy – but he won’t eat…and barely moves. I’m forcing him to take some juice from a can of soup by putting it on his gums – and then he has to lick his gums and the soup juice on them. Don’t know what else to do. He keeps sneezing so I’m hoping it’s a virus that he can eventually beat. The vet said his vitals were normal. Stay with me Earl buddy.

  • Bridges…bridges…and a snails pace on the ICW

    Wrightsville NC to Myrtle Beach SC on the ICW

    We departed Wrightsville NC at 6:30am, with the goal of making it under the first fixed bridge 10 miles south at low tide around 8am. We arrived at the bridge at 8:20….eased thru…as our mast cleared by at least two feet. Whew.

    Some of the notable sights for the day include:
    -sea grasses along the North Caroline coastline
    -a happy Captain Pat after getting thru the first fixed bridge of the day
    -Fisherman hunting for oysters and crabs along numerous inlets

    The next fixed bridge was in a narrow ICW stretch…and had no depth markings. Thus…it was pure guesswork if we would get under it successfully. The height of the bridge looked short to me…but miraculously we cleared this one too.

    Now we are traveling along the Cape Fear river. I keep checking to see if Robert DiNiro is hanging under our bridge deck. All of the ICW reference manuals noted big currents, rip tides and rough navigating through the Cape Fear River. Guess they were referring to some other Cape Fear River…because we got to Southport NC (exit from Cape Fear) in no time…with no problems. I’m not complaining. Now the dilemma is deciding if we should stop for the day (11am) or keep going and try to get under the next fixed bridge when the tide is coming in. We decided to keep going. I’m feelin’ lucky today.

    The next fixed bridge turned out to be higher than 65′ and we cleared under this with no problemo. With…one more fixed bridge to go. I hoped we weren’t pushing our luck today. It would be practically high tide for this one. Technically, the bridge clearance of 65′ is for high tide…but don’t always count on it. Better to be safe with $30K in rigging…to just travel under these bridges at the lowest of tides. Here we go…our last fixed bridge of the day…and it’s high tide.

    Derrick first spotted the depth markers along the bridge. These markers indicate how many feet clearance you have – based on the tide. This one shows 68 feet. Should be plenty of room. We slowly approached the bridge to be sure….and we did have about 1 foot of clearance. Note to self. Do NOT trust the bridge height markers along the ICW.

    Our final bridge of the day to get by – was a pontoon barge swing cable bridge. This is a fascinating contraption. The bridge keeper only opens the bridge on the hour…and we arrived at approximately 2:10. We would idle and do circles for 50 minutes until the 3PM opening. 3PM finally arrives. The bridge is actually a barge on pontoons with a bridge tender house, and cables to hold it together with the fixed part of the bridge. Once it opens, you have to wait for the cables to drop to the bottom of the channel Once the cables have dropped, the bridge tender hails you thru.We finally crossed into South Carolina.

    Today’s destination is the Myrtle Beach YC marina. It is a bit upscale….but at least a place to tie up, get heat…(tho the temperatures are warmer here)…and take showers. I’m trying not to look scraggly anymore. At an “upscale” place such as the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, I thought I might be able to find a decent restaurant, pizza or even grocery store within walking distance. To my dismay, there is nothing but 4 lane highways with lots of billboards and a few convenience stores selling cheese whiz & chips. Seemed like everyone in this town was a sport fisherman high on testosterone. It was creepy, redneck, and I was ready to get right back onto Cat Maudy. Yes, I’m ready to be in South Carolina, but not Myrtle Beach. We ordered out for pizza – and luckily they deliver to the boat.

  • Tranquility of the ICW

    Sneeds Ferry to Wrightsville NC

    We left the Swan Point marina in Snead’s Ferry NC at 7am…and made it under the fixed bridge at low tide with about 1 foot to spare. It’s a bit unnerving when you consider that a sailboat’s rig could come crashing down, smashing your boat and more frightening thoughts — should you make contact with the top of a fixed bridge. My gut was knotted – and this was my first fixed bridge. Captain Pat navigated every so slowly. We crept up to the bridge…despite the winds and currents trying to move the boat in every direction. At the point of no return, I grimaced. It was hard to look….but I did. We were “clear”. We could navigate under this bridge without the rigging coming down. This is one of the most stressful events for a sailboat owner, with a tall mast – navigating along the ICW.

    Traveling along the ICW….unlike driving Interstate 95 at high speed, is a slow motion event. The beauty of slow motion — is watching the schools of dolphins, playfully swimming at your bow, or stern, and jumping thru the wakes of powerboats. The landscape changes from rural and natural, to urban….and back to rural. And unless you fall asleep, you don’t miss a thing.

    In addition to navigating UNDER fixed bridges, we also experienced waiting for draw bridges to open. 10 miles south of the last fixed bridge, is a “swing” bridge – which we waited for the bridge tender to open. As we go thru, the bridge tenders make note of the name and hailing port of your boat. I surmise they report this back to the NSA.

    How often have you given any thought to how bridges operate? From the vantage point of the water, the swing bridges are a fascinating operation. They pivot in the middle…and all of the southbound and northbound boat traffic hi tails it thru before the bridge pilot decides you have to wait for the next hour. Cat Maudy had pedal to the medal….and we navigated through before the bridge tender closed the bridge.

    I’m not sure who started the idea of placing very large objects on their front lawn overlooking the Intra Coastal, but more than one person decided this was a good idea. Scary. I’ll just call this the land of lawn ornaments.

    We went thru 2 swing bridges.and one drawbridge. We lose a good deal of time waiting for the bridges to open, but it’s all good. More time to absorb the scenery. Along the intracoastal, there are various inlets to the ocean. Most of these inlets are too shallow to navigate (unless you are in a rowboat). You can tell when you are nearing an inlet, as the water changes color to this beautiful blue-green. More dolphins appear too.

    After a full day of ICW motoring, we ended the day at the SeaPath Yacht Club…in Wrightsville NC. It’s a bit upscale here – looks a tourist ocean side town. We walked a few miles to get to the ocean….have a coffee….and grab some dinner. On the walk back to the boat…a couple walked by us and said “hey – you look like sailors”. When I inquired “why would you say that?”, he responded that we looked ‘scraggly’. Ok, I’ve only been on the boat for 1 day, motoring along the ICW – so not sure how I looked ‘scraggly’ – but decided after we got back to the marina – I needed to take a shower. Pronto.

    Kitty update: Earl seems to be much much improved. not his 100% self…but he is interested in food again…and drinking…talking and purring. i’m feeling much better too. Back at the marina now. Slight diversion….the shower can wait temporarily. First…I need a dose of endorphins….aka skate of loops in the marina parking lot…

  • First Mate hops aboard…Earl taken to the ER

    Sneeds Ferry, NC

    After a quick stop at the grocery store to stock up on provisions, I departed Ellicott City MD in our Jeep, for a 6 hour drive to Sneed’s Ferry, NC. Somewhere just below Richmond, while driving on I-95 southbound – Pat calls. He suggested I check the air in the left front tire. Apparently there is a slow leak. Now hey…this could have been useful information BEFORE I started the trip? So, I pulled into a gas station in Petersburg VA…and sure enough the tire was nearly FLAT. I filled her up with air…lots of air. A real lotto air. Ok, I didn’t really know how much to fill it – up. Um…maybe I overfilled? Dunno. so I’m gonna drive well under the speed limit for the remainder of the trip. Don’t want the tire to explode. No gauge anywhere. Feeling blonde.

    Arrived in Snead’s Ferry NC at around 2:30pm. Unpacked a jeep load of stuff – including dinghy davit’s, groceries, inline skates, computer and my pink ‘bag of stuff’. Armed with endorphin toys and food, I’m ready for boat travels now.Pat filled up the 400 gallon water tanks on Cat Maudy, and we positioned heavy items (i.e. my pink bag of stuff) and other materials into the cockpit and the salon, to help the boat “sit low” on the water. We would not be performance cruising on this journey. It was more like getting as much weight on the boat as possible so that we could have maximum advantage for crossing under a total of 12 fixed 65′ bridges between Sneeds Ferry NC and Charleston SC. The success of our travels would depend on timing the crossings under the fixed bridges – i.e. low tide, heaviest possible boat weight to lower our profile, no wake, no waves. The conditions needed to be perfect – as our height to the top of the mast measured 64.5 feet. Pete had climbed the mast earlier in the day to remove some unnecessary items that added to the mast height (wind anemometer) – and of course the anchor light had already been ripped off from a previous fixed bridge.

    It’s hard to describe Americana when you scrape off the outer layer. Mostly we see landscapes and strip malls from a roads eye view. Who takes time to look closely? We are so busy multi tasking — that appreciating “the moment” without interruption seems foreign. From the water, the Intra Coastal Waterway (ICW) — are scenes that transform right before your eyes. Sneads Ferry, home of shrimp boats, friendly folks and the local’s only inlet to the Atlantic – is filled with spectacular, simple and mesmerizing views. The folks who run the Swan Point Marina…are completely down-home and delightful. These are the people who give you a ‘courtesy car’ – which is their car to take anywhere you want. There is a genuine 1950’s feel to this area. 2 miles down the road is an indoor roller rink – and Saturday night seems to be the ‘happening nite’. I could be persuaded to stay here for awhile.

    While at the marina…we checked out an incoming shrimp boat…Fishermen were unloading their catch — a combination of shrimp and fish. Piles of shrimp and fish cargo were transferred to awaiting hands for further commercial distribution. It was apparently a good catch. One fisherman showed me a large fish with human like teeth – called a Sheepshead. The fish would accrue to $6K….minus fuel….and boat operations…a few hundred bucks for the crew and captain. Doesn’t seem like much for very long days of work.

    Earl is not doing well. He’s very weak…curled into fetal position, didn’t greet me…no talking…no moving. He needed intervention. At 7pm, we decided he needed to be seen by a vet. We have access to a car – and I searched the Internet for local emergency vets. We got a referral to an emergency vet in Jacksonville NC. So at 7:30pm…we all piled into the jeep and headed to the Jacksonsville NC. I had Earl in my arms. He was barely moving. After wasting 20 minutes going in circles and getting lost – we finally found the Vet emergency room. They did blood work..checked him out…and everything came back 100% NORMAL. Which is good…but hey – what gives with this little guy? The doctor gave Earl an IV to pump up his liquids, and cortisone to encourage him to eat…and antibiotics. I’m feeling better. I hope Earl is too.

    On the way back to the marina, we stopped at a the Thirsty Turtle — a convenience store drive thru. That’s right, a convenience store drive thru. It’s a big building….with the middle cut out so that you can drive thru like a car wash. Once inside…you stop the car…and some teenage kid comes up to your window and asks you what you want. You tell him soda…chips whatever…and he brings it to your car…you pay…and drive out the other side of the building. I love Snead’s Ferry.

  • Got TANG? Change of Plans…

    Captain Pat Log Entries:
    Beaufort to Swansboro 11/14
    I made some scramble eggs with sausage and covered with shredded cheese. And we had coffee
    Tim leaves around 1000
    Derrick and I do some chores
    Derrick and I motor at about 1100
    First bridge at 1215 which is sitting at 63 ft.
    Derrick and I waiting till 1400
    At 1400 the bridge clearance is at 64.5 ft.
    We are starting to approach the bridge.
    I watching the sides of the boat as we continue thru the bridge
    Derrick says it looks good.
    I proceed watching the sides, which are close
    I look up and see the bridge center light make contact with the mast head tri color light which falls off the mast and onto the cockpit floor right next to me.
    We accelerate and Derrick and I get into a regimen of travel down the ditch.
    We are approaching the next bridge and I get a call from the sailboat behind us
    He says the bridge vertical clearance shows 65.5
    I knew that we were at low tide but thank him.
    We anchor in the little cove near Casper’s marina in Swansboro, NC
    Swansboro to swan point marina 11/15/07

    The weather report continues to indicate rough conditions. There are high winds from the massive cold front moving through the region. Freezing temperatures from South Carolina north. Derrick and I are discussing how to handle the situation. Suddenly the boat starts moving. The wind has pushed on us enough and we drag anchor. The boat turned perpendicular to the wind dragging the anchor at about 2 kts in the direction of the highway bridge. At 150 yards off the bridge I got the engines started and was able to hold our position off the highway bridge. We weighed anchor and started motoring. So, the boat decided that we would continue on.

    I call Casper Marina hoping to find a slip for the night all I can think of is the freezing temps coming. “Casper marina, Casper marina, this is sailing vessel Cat Maudy on channel 1 6 over.” No answer. “Dudley Marina this is Cat Maudy on 1 6, over.”

    Dudley answers, “This is Dudley marina to the vessel hailing Dudley Marina. We don’t have room for you”.

    The conditions continue to worsen with winds increasing on our nose at 25+ kts as we navigate into the ICW from the anchorage. I decide to continue south when I feel the boat stop. AGROUND! We were stuck hard to shoal off the boundary island that is homeport of the pink Chris Craft. I bear down hard in reverse but Cat Maudy is a big cat and she settles in. with the wind pushing us onto the shoal each second. Shit. I call Jane. “I just wanted to you to be the first to know that I have officially f%&#ed this up, bye.” My next call was to TowBoatUS.

    Homeport for this TowBoatUS is at the Casper Marina. After about 15 minutes of waiting for the tow a couple of gleaming hull powerboats plow thru traveling south and bouncing us on our bottom. I can see that the water is 2 feet or less. Each wake is pushing us further onto the shoal when I see the TowBoatUS vessel emerge from the Casper Marine dock. Looking north up the ICW there is another 55 feet of plastic pleasure plowing along with huge wake following it.

    I stand out on the fish deck of Cat Maudy and motion my hands and arms in a down direction. I can see the couple on the SunSeeker waving and smiling as they trek mindlessly south. “Well Derrick, this wake should pretty much set on this shoal forever. I suppose if we get some pink for the hull and green paint for the cabin we join that old Chris Craft.” The wake lifts Maudy and thrust forward. I look over and the towboat is approaching and the SunSeeker wake lifts us up and over the shoal to deeper water beyond it. We’re floating and making way directly for the anchorage in which we spent the night. Rock On! I fire the diesels and hear the towboat captain yell, “Come to port hard.” I do that, then maneuver past a day marker leaving it on the port side. Another massive turn to port and we are completely clear and making way back into the ICW.

    “Derrick lift the engine compartment hatches and check for water in the engine bilges.” Derrick scrambles then returns. “Looks dry, we’re good to go.”

    We head south ticking off the miles slowly. Day markers, ICW mileposts, the Onslow beach swing bridge and at last I’m able to locate the phone number of Swan Point Marina. They have space for us and are ahead about 6nm. We have been traveling with the dolphins. They travel up and down the ditch. Six dolphin are swimming ahead of and toward us. They disappear under our bows. At first I’m not sure what to think of them swimming with the boat in these tight quarters but then I figure, “They have a handle on it.” We make our approach and the guys on the dock are guiding us to a side on slip inside the man made jetty they call Swan Point Marina.

    Cat Maudy’s bow rubs gently on the dock and then we are made fast.

    Swan Point Marina 11/16/07
    This is a down day. I made a temporary anchor light. Bought an AquaSignal hanging anchor light from Paul the owner of Swan Point Marina. A southbound hippy guy that is here on a Wharram Nari is installing a new diesel. The transmission on his current Yanmar industrial diesel had a massive transmission problem so he is forced to install a new engine and transmission he can’t get parts for his existing diesel. His name is Pete, and built this particular Wharram 23 year ago and has made as many yearly trips from Kitty Hawk, NC to Sarasota, FL. He has a beach business in Kitty Hawk and works in the marine industry as a welder in Sarasota. We chatted this afternoon about his boat and Cat Maudy. I told him the story of the jib stay tang. He thought about it for a while and then later in the afternoon he stopped by to make a few comments about it. I had him take a close look and he, “Oh, that has a lot of material left” but it is not to be trusted on the outside.

    Notes from Land…
    Thursday 11.15.07

    – received a flurry of phone calls from Pat
    – Earl ate some smoked turkey….and took a poo…..seemed like good signs
    – winds gusted up while Cat Maudy was at anchor in the Intra Coastal…dragged the boat toward a bridge w/heavy current…Pat got engines going in nick of time
    – Cat Maudy ran aground…while they waited for a tow…a big motor yacht w/big wake got them off
    – waited 30 min for a drawbridge to open in a tiny channel w/3 other boats & 25 knot winds
    – got a slip at a marina in Sneads Ferry NC…with about 2 min to spare b4 a tornado passed over
    – I’m not taking any more calls from Pat today…

    The Swan Point Marina at Sneads Ferry provides a “courtesy car” for use by it’s marina guests. What IS a courtesy car? The owner of the marina leaves the keys under the mat in his car – and the guests at the marina take the car wherever they need to go

    It has now been 1 week, since I was on board with Cat Maudy. I’ve been on land, and have missed the adventures. I’m in the middle of 18 hour work days, and a phone that never stops ringing. It is prime-time for our business. Perhaps the tipping point is the notion of a Courtesy Car? Or the other countless events that you can only live, when you take risks? But for now, it’s all about Earl. I wasn’t sure if my little buddy was getting better, and the thought of him leaving this existence without saying goodbye wasn’t sitting well. I had to be in a place where people leave their keys in their cars for you to use. I had to experience the Intra Coastal. I had to be with Earl. I had to drop everything I was doing. I had to be in this story.

  • Rigging deteriorates offshore near Cape Hatteras

    Following the advice of Commander’s Weather, Cat Maudy and crew waited until Sunday morning for the offshore seas to settle. Unfortunately the projected weather of 15-20 knot northerly winds….turned out to be a wimpy 2 knot wind. Cat Maudy only holds 90 gallons of fuel. Not enough to motor to the next inlet at Beaufort NC. They need wind. Much more than 2 knots.

    Captains Pat & Tim decided to change course and sail further offshore, into the gulf stream, in an attempt to catch better winds. Be careful what you wish for. 50 miles off shore – the crew got wind, and seas. More than they bargained for. More than Cat Maudy was ready for. It was too much stress on the rig connector to the jib. Something about the connector do-dad is wearing out…and the wearing out part just got worse. Yes, I can be technical. Cat Maudy needed repairs, and the crew worked tirelessly to bring her into the Beaufort Inlet without the rig crumbling….by Tuesday morning. The original plan was to be in Charleston SC by Tuesday — but with Cat Maudy’s fragile state….the furthest she could travel offshore – is Beaufort NC.

    Captain Pat Log Entry
    Norfolk to Charleston, SC 11/11
    Early start delayed to 0800
    Motoring out the Norfolk harbor and see what appeared to be a crab pot but was really a porpoise.
    Sailing south to Cape Hatteras passing Virginia beach and on and on till the wind died
    Motoring late in the afternoon as the wind prematurely turned southish
    Motored all night south.
    Daylight and near cape Hatteras 11/12
    Concerned about the timing but decided to do some tacks.
    Wind re-appeared on the starboard
    Big massive tack nearly out to the Gulf Stream.
    Conditions worsen port tack is problematic and the jib stay is taking it hard Detour to Beaufort NC (motoring)
    Decide to motor to Beaufort, NC at about 2000
    Switch off the driving watching duties as we motor with a 20 gusting 27 head wind and building seas.
    Arrive Beaufort, NC 1030 11/13
    Meet Mr. McCullsky. Old dude with a 72ft custom built sport fisher.

    The crew wrestles Cat Maudy into safe harbor, and they rest at Moorhead City, NC. It’s time to evaluate sailing offshore versus motoring down the IntraCoastal Waterway. The weather forecast is for winds from the WSW at gale force for Wednesday..turning to NW on Thursday also at gale force. With fiesty weather, and a frail rig, it is time for Plan B.. travel via the intracostal. Captain Tim needs to return to his job- and we fly him back to Maryland. This leaves Captain Pat, and unknown crew Derrick who will travel with Pat for the remaining leg of the trip. Who is this man with unlimited time on his hands?

    Apparently Earl is ill. He is not eating or drinking. He did not appreciate days of cold weather and bumpy sailing offshore. I’m hoping he’ll feel better tomorrow. He needs TLC.

  • Is Cat Maudy ready for offshore sailing?

    Norfolk VA and offshore
    Pat calls around noon. Cat Maudy’s current position is the mouth of the Rhappannock River, with following seas growing to 6-7 feet….and rollers coming in around 10 feet. The GPS showed they were sailing at 18 knots. A line had become loose over the starboard beam, and became entangled with “something” under the hull. Captain Pat was concerned it would wrap around the prop or the rudder, and wanted my feedback. Should he dive under the hull to free the line. Hello??

    That would be a firm NEGATORY Captain Pat. There will be NO diving under the hulls while sailing 18 knots in 6-7 foot seas. He would have to WAIT, until the sea state calmed before the line issue could be resolved. I found it hard to imagine that anyone would consider diving under a boat in these conditions to retrieve a line, but then again, I’m an extreme athlete (i.e. not known to always fully engage the brain) – so it is best not to be too judgmental.

    Pat calls again around 4:30pm…the crew had safely arrived in Norfolk VA from an overnight sail down the Chesapeake Bay. The line had broken free during their travels. The engines worked fine. The prop and rudders had no issues. The auto-pilot kept blowing a fuse….but there would be no diving for lines.

    Our two cats, Soxy (black and white alley cat) and Earl (16 year old Siamese) were on board for this sailing adventure. Both cats have been on board with Cat Maudy for a year, but neither had done much sailing due to the long list of repairs – keeping Cat Maudy at dockside. The cats loved boat life — at dockside. That’s all they knew. Until now.

    Soxy discovered she could not keep her balance on a rocking boat. She ran scared around the foredeck 3 times…and the crew had to catch her, and lock her inside. Surely she was looking for land, and an opportunity to escape the moving boat. Earl slept through the entire trip.

  • Sailing south on a broken boat…and an unknown crew

    We worked tirelessly on Cat Maudy, for over a year – to bring her back from “deathrow”. We closed the deal on Cat Maudy – the day after Thanksgiving 2006. The price was right, but she was in serious state of disrepair. Much progress has been made, but her list of necessary repairs remained long and significant. She has not seen a lot of sail time with us, and I was concerned she was not ready for this voyage. Captain Pat wanted to give her a chance to prove herself. We left it at that. Destination Charleston SC. Winter in Charleston. South enough so that we could avoid freezing weather….and not too far south, so that I could travel back to Maryland in a day trip via Amtrak train. I had an 89 year old aging father to care for in Maryland, and not ready to be a full time cruiser.

    Captain Pat had signed up fellow captain and friend Tim to sail south from Baltimore MD to Charleston SC. After weeks of calls and searching for a 3rd crew/captain — we had exhausted our list of friends, sailors and anyone who might appear game for this adventure. It was unlikely that a 3rd man would become available, so Captain’s Pat and Tim worked through the details of a dual captained sail over 3-4 days. It would be more difficult for two persons coordinating sleep requirements, and sailing should the weather deteriorate — but it was do able. After all, people single-handedly sail across the oceans.

    On the 11th hour Thursday eve, the night before departure – we were busy on deck checking lines, and electronics — when a dock passerby offered to assist. Sure, we could use some help. So, Derrick hopped aboard, and proceeded to spend the next hour on deck helping with final preparation. First impressions? He seemed like a nice guy. Very helpful, and knowledgeable with boats. Eventually, the conversation led to “Hey Derrick, what are you doing for the next 3-4 days?” Derrick had no plans, and was more than happy to pack up a bag that evening, and be ready to set sail in 24 hours.

    If we weren’t in a state of desperation for crew, this should have been a red flag. How many people do you know have absolutely nothing to do for the next 4 days and can drop everything to join you. No money was involved – we weren’t paying him for his time. All we could offer was food and board for the duration of the sail. In some ways, I admired a person who was not tied to a traditional lifestyle (work, family, day to day details) – and their belongings could pile into one duffel bag. My inner voice was begging for me to listen to objections…but I successfully tuned out that voice.

    As for me…I was “ok” with not being in this “Cat Maudy goes south story”. I’m not ready for ocean sailing, big seas, big weather. I’m a sailing novice…I admit it. Plus, as a small business owner, I can’t simply disappear. Someone has to hold down the biz…and things were busy this time of year. It was “snow season”, and our government clients depend on our Snow Removal Software to keep the roads plowed and the elected officials content. I had plenty of excuses. I left my “home” on Cat Maudy, with Captain Pat….to return temporarily to land life.

    Captain Pat would soon depart the comfort of dockside, with Captain Tim and new crew mate Derrick on Cat Maudy at 7pm on Friday in 40 degree temperatures and a persistent drizzle of rain. The plan? They would sail all night to Norfolk VA and arrive during the day. Spend the following night at anchor, and then depart the mouth of the Chesapeake, and sail south on the “outside” (ocean) for the remaining 3 days. Projected arrival into Charleston SC was Tuesday AM. That was the ‘plan’.

  • The bizarre history of Cat Maudy

    Captain Theo and his wife Ursula (from Switzerland), are the original owners of Cat Maudy. Cat Maudy, a John Shuttleworth design catamaran was built in 2000, in Germany. At that time, there were only 4 Shuttleworth Advantage designs. Cat Maudy is #4. Cat Maudy was designed to be a charter catamaran – and had 4 staterooms, and 3 heads. Her maiden sail was across the Atlantic Ocean, from Germany…to Trinidad…to the British Virgin Islands. From here, Theo and Ursula chartered Cat Maudy, and earned a living doing what they loved (sailing) for the next 2 years.

    Somewhere near the end of the second year of charter sailing, Werner and Alice (also from Switzerland, and currently living in Annapolis MD) chartered Cat Maudy through Theo and Ursula. Werner, a designer of roller coasters worldwide, was fascinated with sailing and immediately hooked. He loved Cat Maudy. Alice wasn’t quite as excited. She hoped to take their earnings, and invest in a home somewhere in the Caribbean. Werner had other ideas. When Alice wasn’t looking, Werner purchased Cat Maudy from Theo and Ursula. Werner and Alice are now the proud owners of Cat Maudy.

    Needless to say, Alice was not happy. Werner was busy designing roller coasters, and didn’t have the time to spend sailing. Alice just wanted a Caribbean home (on land) She did not want a boat. Werner moved Cat Maudy north to Florida, and hired a Captain to charter her. Werner soon discovered that the Captain was making money from charters, and not sharing the revenues. The Captain was also allowing Cat Maudy to deteriorate – and failed to maintain her. Cat Maudy was out in rough seas, and feisty weather — when the dinghy davits were torn off, solar panels ripped off, and the sails ripped in half. Werner had enough. He went to Florida to get his boat back.

    In the meantime, Theo and Ursula are having a house built in the Dominican Republic. Yes, they are building the house on land, in the Caribbean — similar to the one that Alice had always dreamed of. Theo is overseeing the construction of his new house. But Theo’s management style does not go over well with the workers in the Dominican Republic. He manages to piss them off. Bad. One late afternoon, Theo and Ursula are badly beaten…by the Dominican Republic construction workers. Theo and Ursula are flown back to Florida for surgery and recovery.

    Werner and Alice travel up the ICW from Florida to Maryland…and Cat Maudy is hauled out for repairs. She sits on land for the next 2 years. Werner begins the repairs — but they are too much for one person. 5 years in southern and Caribbean weather does a lot of damage to a boat. Alice wants to sell the boat. Werner wants to tinker. Neither of them know much about sailing, but Werner is a dreamer. Cat Maudy needs major overhaul. Alice insists on selling her. Werner reluctantly puts Cat Maudy for sale….but Werner turns down every offer. Werner suffers a heart attack….and he can no longer work on Cat Maudy.

    Pat and I decide we need a larger catamaran – one that we can live on. Pat notices a John Shuttleworth catamaran for sale in Maryland – called Cat Maudy. I look at the pictures online. It’s lovely. We drive to Georgetown MD to take a look. The boat looks like a shanty boat. It does not resemble the pictures. Pat tries hard to describe her features despite the shanty facade. I hear nothing of it. We go and grab lunch. I agree to go back and look again. It still looks like a shanty boat – but Pat convinces me he can fix her up to be an amazing boat. Plus, it is a price we can afford. Well, of course it is — it’s a shanty boat.

    We make another trip to visit Cat Maudy. We meet with the broker, and owners – Werner and Alice. Pat and Werner immediately hit it off. I like Alice. She’s got spunk. And yes, she’s still mad at Werner. Pat and Werner begin working on Cat Maudy – fixing her up. No no, we haven’t bought her yet….but these two are working together, and fixing up Cat Maudy. Very strange. For the next 4 months, Pat works on Cat Maudy, spends time with Werner, and eventually I get into the program. We sanded both hulls, and applied 2 coats of bottom paint. Pat works around the clock on getting Cat Maudy ready for her sea trial. We still don’t own her….the broker has never seen this type of situation.

    The purchase of Cat Maudy is painful and slow. She is registered to Werner….but somehow Theo appears on the title? When Theo sold the boat to Werner, Swiss law requires a registered Captain be named as the owner. Werner wasn’t a registered Swiss Captain at that time — so he left Theo’s name on the boat. But, in order to sell the boat — we need ALL owners to agree to the sale – and this means we need to track down Theo.

    Pat locates Theo and Ursula – who are recovering from the attack in the Dominican Republic – in a trailer park along the Gulf Coast of Florida. Theo seems reluctant to sign over the title allowing the sale to go through. A second Fed Ex document is sent to Theo. He finally responds….and signs over the title. Pat and I make a trip to Florida to meet with Theo and Ursula. Cat Maudy becomes a very “personalized” boat sale….where we must meet with the owners to make sure they are comfortable with us. We passed the test.

    It was the day after Thanksgiving, 2006. After 4 long agonizing months of paperwork, land surveys, sea surveys, financial approvals, Swiss boat documentation transfer to US, wire transfers PLUS actual work on the boat (bottom job, install electric, get the heads to work…just to name a few…..before , Cat Maudy was ours to sail. We had just enough time to sail out of Georgetown Yacht Basin on the Sassafras River, to Baltimore Harbor – before it was time to winterize the boat. But, Cat Maudy was now ours to re-hab. She is in pretty rough shape cosmetically, needs to be upgraded to US standards (original owners & 2nd owners of Cat Maudy both Swiss), new solar panels and dingy davits will need to be installed, batteries replaced, running rigging replaced, power needs to be installed, the heads need to work…and the list goes on and on. But, Cat Maudy was structurally sound (as indicated by the marine surveyor), and would make for an incredible sailing vessel…once the long list of “to do’s” had been checked off. Pat was ready to tackle her challenges…after all Pat had built a Wharram catamaran from scratch, successfully sailed it for 3 years on Lake Michigan, so he was the “man” for the job. We would soon discover, that it didn’t take very long, before we could live aboard, and start cruising – on a broken boat.

  • 1975: A runner’s 10 cent reward

    I ran up the winding switchbacks of South Mountain, lungs ready to burst, barely noticing the Susquehanna Valley views.   Ten more steps to reach the summit, where the city turned to country, and the country roads flattened.

    Flipping through a jukebox in my mind for songs that kept up the tempo of feet hitting asphalt made running easy.  It was 1975, and naturally the uphills syncopated to disco while the downhills and the flats eased into longer strides and slower beats.  How sweet it is.  Waving goodbye New York and hello to Pennsylvania at the state line, it was freedom at the age of 15.

    Picking up speed — or so it seemed — it was time to return on a five-mile descent toward Binghamton City limits.  No-one could catch me now, not even the free-roaming dogs, running as fast as I knew,  fantasizing what it would be like to be Kathrine Switzer crossing the Boston Marathon finish.  Reaching the corner of Vestal Avenue — shy of the Susquehanna River — I broke my own imaginary ribbon, then stopped, bent over, lungs screaming for air.  Nine miles.  Not bad for an adventure junkie.

    Next stop, Fannies — the 5-and-dime store, where fair trade meant one dime for a creamsicle.    I was in no hurry now, and running never tasted so good, one lick at a time.