Becoming wary of repair crew….

After 6 weeks of being land-based in Maryland, I was looking forward to finally rejoining Pat and boat life on Cat Maudy. The weather on Saturday 1/12/08 was perfect for my 9 hour drive from Silver Spring MD. The original plan was to take the Amtrak from DC to Charleston – but due to a recent bout with the flu – I preferred to avoid more flu season on the train with a bunch of potentially ill people. Thus, I’m driving, solo.

My VW Beetle was loaded. Bicycle, computer, skates, food — soy, brown rice, quinoa & fruit….along with 5 bags of crew mate Derrick’s “stuff”.

Derrick, our last minute crew who joined up for the sail south in early November – was still on board. We had worked out an “arrangement” – where he did a bunch of work on the boat…in trade for food and board. He was trying to get his footing….and we thought we could help him get a fresh start – in Charleston SC.

But, all was not well with this arrangement. Captain Pat noticed discrepancies in Derrick’s stories…how he had worked on Tiger Wood’s yacht in Florida, why he left Florida, why his parents won’t have anything to do with him. I’m a sucker for a good storyline. Not Pat. Pat saw the fissures…and soon we would both be onto the “real” Derrick, the crack addict, who was living on our boat.

For now, I am southward bound on I-95….and all was going well until I decided to fuel up at Exit 181 in South Carolina at the Hess gas station. That’s where my trusted volkswagon beetle became possessed. While filling up the tank – and with keys, purse, cell phone resting on the car seat – the doors suddenly locked, locking me OUT.

This is what you call a PANIC moment. No cell phone, no keys, no money, no food, no water….nothing. I had to rely on the kindness of strangers to help me out. Borrowing a few cell phones…I managed to contact Pat – and he hopped in the Jeep for a 3 hour drive to Exit 181 – with a spare key for the Beetle. In the meantime…I needed food and water (a Wadsworth cannot go 3 hours without food!)… Waiting…waiting….waiting…. Now approximately an hour into sitting on the hood of my VW Beetle – I looked around for some South Carolina ex-con who might be able to break into my friggin’ car. Noticed a tow truck driver filling up on diesel. I asked him if he knew how to break into a car – in my best blonde impression. Whew….he did. Within 20 minutes of break-in magic — he unlocked the door for me (slightly damaging the door too – but hey – I didn’t care at this point!)….and I was back on my way to Charleston.

The car spent the next 2 weeks at the Mount Pleasant Low Country Volkswagon dealership – to fix the computer sensor problem that caused the doors to lock without notice. Moral of this story…don’t trust computer chips in cars…and keep your keys on you at all times!

Retrospect.
A boat needs to REALLY go south for the winter….not Charleston SC — SOUTH. Now, I realize that Charleston was selected because it allowed me to easily travel back and forth to Maryland for work and family issues….but I can still learn from all of this. It would be nice if I was independently wealthy, retired or did not have a fear of flying – instead I need to work, and I travel only by land or water.

Sooo, going between Maryland and Charleston SC has been exhausting, and I have now lived out of a suitcase for over 2 months. The good thing, is that I realize how few items I really need in my life….a few clothes, inline skates, laptop and my health food (brown rice, quinua, soy….fresh fruits and veggies)….everything beyond that is EXTRA. The tough part…is when I’m not on the boat – I don’t really have a place to call home. Cry me a river.

Reality.
With that said, I was looking forward to being “home” on Cat Maudy. Then, I stepped into our boat. And…proceeded to fall down the steps into the galley. A calamity-Jane at best.

Cutting & re-glassing the steps became a high priority project for Derrick. He needed to cut, and fix the steps so that there is enough room for a human foot before it slides off the edge. Thank you 😉

Next boat observation…the smell. Condensation, moisture, mold everywhere….temperatures outside in the 30’s and inside with 3 space heaters running in the upper 50’s / low 60’s. Monsoon style rains….wind….and wetness like you’ve never imagined. What’s up with that?(31 degrees outside…61 degrees inside)

The deal is — when it is cold and wet outside….and you are heating the boat inside….you never open it up because it’s too cold and wet outside. Then condensation forms everywhere….and eventually everything turns to mold…the walls, bedding. Clothing…everything! Now, don’t get me wrong — this is not a problem unique to Cat Maudy. Every boat owner at the City Marina that we came in contact with – is having the same problem. So, we have to just deal with it. Wipe down the inside of the boat with Simple Green or Vinegar…including all foot lockers and cubbies….and bag up everything not being used – in airtight vacuum bags to prevent further molding. A relatively monumental task.

Sadly, many items were trashed due to the mold….and on one of the 3 total dry days while I was in Charleston for my 2 week stay — I did approximately 25 loads of wash – with about a gallon of Clorox – to try to kill the mold and simultaneously turn everything we own into a tie-dye look. Oops…

A clothes drying day – everything is laid out on the hulls & bridge deck for some sunshine.After looking at ALL of these clothes…I realize more downsizing is necessary in my life!

Soaked pillows….taking in some rays and temperatures in the upper 40’s

Cat Maudy goes Healthy Eatin’
After 6 weeks of staring at land based TV in the evenings – watching the FOOD network, Iron Chef…and the Travel Channel….along with my own personal commitment to HEALTY eating….all of this had to be instilled onto Cat Maudy.

Now, I realize Pat and Derrick were quite happy with fried foods, sweets, crackers and peanut butter…eating out at 5 Guys for hamburgers and fries…but those days are over now. New foods have arrived…and they include:
Spinach, yellow squash, mushrooms, zucchini,
Tomatoes, cucumber, onions, Tofu
Fresh fish (Tilapia, wild salmon, flounder),
Brown rice, sweet brown rice, barley, lentils, and quinoa (introduced to me by my friend Meryl!), Dried fruits and nuts
Fresh fruits – apples, pears, berries, kiwi, oranges, grapefruit…

I spent my first few hours upon arrival – purging the Pantry and Refridgerator of the “got to go” foods (heavily processed, high sodium, high sugar…just about everything!)…and then made a stop at the local grocery stores (Teeter & Publix) to begin the transition toward healthy foods. My goal is to eventually rid of all processed food…but we’re not there yet.

Art…and food — aka the presentation…the aura – is my new “thing”.

Chef Jane’s new entries include:

Pan grilled chicken in lemon pepper and sun dried tomatoes, leaf spinach w/corn & orzo salad tossed with a balsamic vinaigrette. Slices of pears and kiwi fruit to garnish….

Spinach salad w/ fresh tomatoes, red onion and fat free feta cheese – with a yogurt dressing

Pan grilled salmon cooked slowly in a low-sodium soy sauce served on a bed of baby spinach along with red tomatoes, fresh cucumber, corn, red onion, Bartlett pears and dried Michigan cherries topped with a drizzle of yogurt dressing garnished with slices of whole wheat pita bread and eggplant hummus

total calories: 315

Years ago I was thrilled to have a dinner of popcorn…followed by m&m’s….wow…what happened???

Rendezvous with sailor friends from Germany
We met Heiko and Jutta while at port in Baltimore. Heiko and Jutta are a lovely German couple – hard core sailors (live on the cheap, know how to fix everything themselves, extremely self-reliant, and sail everywhere). They noticed our German made anchor and thought we might be German (nope…but Cat Maudy is German built)….and the friendship began. They translated all of the words on our control panel – which are all in German – to English. It helps knowing what all of the buttons on your boat mean.

Pat noticed on Heiko & Jutta’s website that they were arriving into the Charleston area – and sent them an email. We hooked up and they joined us for dinner on Cat Maudy. We got to hear about their adventures up north in Newfoundland….getting close to icebergs….and how to use iceberg ice in rum & cokes. Cool!

Exercise in Charleston
My exercise regimen was somewhat limited due to the inclement weather. I did manage to get in a few skate workouts at the James Island County Park…and discovered the thrill of bicycling over the Route 17 bridge into Mount Pleasant. I also hit tennis balls one day in the local park with my friend Cindy.

In addition, my stepdaughter Emma talked me into doing the Columbia Iron Girl Triathlon with her (and I dragged my skate sista Jill into this mix as well!) The triathlon is scheduled for August…I don’t know how to swim. Oh my.

James Island County Park is just a few minutes from the City Marina — tho only accessible from a car. Once in the park – they have designated bicycle paths – tho I don’t really like these – so I just skate in the park roads. The park roads are nicely paved – and the loop is just under 1.5 miles. I have to figure out ways to challenge myself here and not get too bored with the small loop. Sometimes I skate the loop doing small speed intervals….and other times I try to work on my crossover technique. Or, I just try to avoid the dogs in the park…a lot of people take their dogs here. The coolest part of the loop is the section near the pond – which is lined by palm trees.
I skip the bike path section…go straight to the park roads for skating

Ever since we first saw the Route 17 (Ravenel) bridge when we arrived into the Charleston Harbor on Thanksgiving Day…I wanted to ride my bicycle over that bridge. The bridge has great architecture, and only in slow motion (bike or walking) can you really absorb it’s design and the view of Charleston. Walking is too slow for my taste — so it was time to figure out how to bike on that thing. The bridge was built in 2005 – and was designed with a pedestrian / bike way completely separate from the traffic lanes. How delightful. So, I biked out of the City Marina…along Wentworth Ave – over to East Bay…and up East Bay until…sure enuf — the bike way for the bridge appeared. It is a pretty good haul up the bridge – so the workout was wonderful. I stopped a bunch to take pictures – so the workout got ‘paused’ frequently — and the descent down into Mt Pleasant on the other side was high speed. Got to test out my brakes!

Just getting on the Bridge bike way from downtown Charleston

Work Life goes on…and on….

Despite all of boat life duties….and attempting to explore Charleston, exercise…eat healthy…working for our clients still consumes the bulk of our days. Generally, we are up at 5am…and work until 9pm…with all of the other activities taking away little slices throughout the day.Some people dread retirement…I always hear “what would I do with all of that time?” I can assure you…I would LOVE to have all that time to fill up with all of the stuff that I really prefer to do. Being self employed, the likelihood that I’ll ever retire is slim to none…so for us, it’s all about carving in everything that you want to do each day.A little philosophical perspective…

Restoration of Cat Maudy

Cat Maudy hasn’t left the City Marina dock since she arrived on Thanksgiving. That’s right — no sailing…nada. Derrick is currently living aboard — doing a ton of manual labor for us. Thus, Cat Maudy is undergoing a LOT of repairs — and the laundry list of Cat Maudy completed tasks include:

Dingy Davits installed
Solar Panels installed & wired
Pantry area designed / fiber-glassed and painted
Forward holds sanded and painted
Topside sanded and prepped for painting (waiting for better weather to paint!)

Hulls sanded and buffedTang – welded / jib rigging restored
Anchor arm extended
Rebuilt companionway steps
Installed new cushions in salon
Re-rigged the main sheet on the boomDe-molded everything!

And the TO DO list is just as large:
Get second refrigeration unit running
Re-install electronics at masthead
Reinstalling the water maker
Paint topside
Interior sanding / painting in galley and forward berths
Salon flooring (remove carpet!)

Charleston at last – for Thanksgiving


Isle of Palms, to Charleston SC

I awoke to fisherman activity at the fuel dock. Turns out the fuel dock doubles as a bait shop. All of the fishermen down here wear camouflage hunting outfits and every boat comes equipped with 2 sport fisherman (camouflaged) and a black or golden lab. 50% of the labs are missing a limb…ie 3 legged. This scene qualifies as ‘red neck’ in my book. I’m not sure the purpose of the full camouflage – I guess they think they are hiding from the fish. Ya know, “shhhhh don’t tell the fish we’re here…”

The winds and tidal currents are considerable today. We inched toward our final 65′ fixed bridge. I spotted a measuring stick on this one — and it said 67 feet. We “should” be good – but you never know if these sticks are calibrated – so we proceeded cautiously just to be sure. Pat maneuvered ever so slooooly…..and after a few agonizing minutes….I gave the ‘all clear’.
Unfortunately, the timing of making the fixed bridge at low tide, meant we had to wait nearly an hour for the final swing bridge approximately a mile away to open. Hurry up…and wait. It’s all good.

We snaked our way thru the inter-coastal with swamp grasses, shoals and surprisingly shallow water in the channel – out to the Charleston Harbor. Dolphins appear again.

 

We crossed the harbor, and headed up the Ashley River to the City Marina docks. We repeatedly hailed the City Marina — but no response. It’s Thanksgiving after all – and everyone is home with family eating turkey. I suggested that we just grab any old space that we see along the dock – and tie up. The tidal currents are strong here, and I was somewhat in a rush to get Earl to yet another emergency vet (he has stopped eating and drinking now). We tied up on the “mega dock” where all of the super-sized yachts are moored. It’s Charleston SC. We’re here. We made it.

I carefully placed Earl in a cushioned box….and ran off the dock with him – to catch the first available cab. No time to get familiar with Charleston. Earl is very sick. It’s Thanksgiving – and there is only one vet clinic open. The lovely cab driver drove me to the emergency vet – and waited for Earl and I. Again, the vet found nothing wrong with Earl. She gave him more fluids, and antibiotics, and special food. I had to feed him via syringe, until he starts eating on his own. I will gladly nurse my buddy back to health.

We set out on foot to find thanksgiving dinner. It is 6PM, and nothing is open in downtown Charleston. Except for 1 pizza joint that caters to college students. Pizza it is. And Thanksgiving dinner never tasted better.

The race to save Earl


Waccamaw River to Isle of Palms SC

I spent the night wrapped up tight with my ailing cat, Earl. He is going south faster than we are. His respiratory is not sounding good…I’m just trying to keep him warm now.

Awoke at 6:15am…to the sounds of shotguns – everywhere! Ok, it’s a bit freaky to be out in the middle of the Waccamaw River, anchored, with no other boats or humans around – and hear shotguns everywhere. Fingers crossed that Dick Cheney wasn’t here with his hunting friends. At first I thought they were shooting at us – as we were the only boat anchored. We finally decided they were shooting bird…probably tomorrow’s Thanksgiving dinner. Please don’t let any bird fly over our boat. Time to pull up anchor and leave the Waccamaw.

We left anchor at about 8:15am…with 5 miles to go before reaching the 65′ fixed bridge. Winds started kicking up, and the current was tricky too. Glad Captain Pat was working his magic at the helm. We inched VERY slowly toward the bridge.

Scanned the bridge pilings for ANY sort of measuring stick. None. Nada. OK, it’s Russian roulette time. This would be a tad trickier than any of the other bridges so far, due to winds and current…and of course no measuring stick to guide us. We were exactly in between the highest and lowest portion of the tides. WHEW….a collective exhale now….we made it under this bridge with about 2 feet to spare.

The goal for today is to get to the Isle of Palms Marina – approximately 60 miles from our anchorage on the Waccamaw. Not sure if this is do-able – but if the currents are in our favor – we can make between 7-8 knots.

We have to pass thru 3 very narrow land cuts. The first cut is 5 miles….then the North Santee River….followed by the second land cut which lasts for 10 miles….and the last land cut is 28 miles. All narrow passages, and lots of swampy sea grass lands.Most of the terrain looks like this picture to the left, swamps on either side of the channel. The channel is only about 9-12 feet deep. Venture too far to starboard or port, and you’ll find yourself in 2 feet of water.
Sunset on the approach to Isle of Palms.

I found the hurricane regulations fairly amusing along the ICW. Basically, if a hurricane shows up and you are unlucky enuf to be in the vicinity of this sign – then you should know that the bridge tender has gone home – and no one will open the bridge for you. OK….got it. I’ll try to remember to avoid navigation in narrow shallow channels during a hurricane when the bridge tender has gone home to be with his family. Got it. Thank you.

This is now the 2nd time this Coast Guard boat has passed us (first time on the Waccamaw). We have to hold onto all of the dishes now b4 they fall out of the cabinets…he makes a rockin’ wake.
We pushed to get to the Isle of Palms Marina – which made it a 60 mile trip along the ICW. Tied up at the fuel dock at approximately 6pm. Exhausted.

PAC Man with the Tram golfers


Myrtle Beach to Waccamaw River, SC

Today we would try to make it thru a total of 10 bridges — six of them fixed height 65′ bridges. If we’re lucky, we’ll finish the day in Georgetown SC – with only 60+- miles til Charleston. Shortly after leaving the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club we were upon our first fixed bridge for the day, followed immediately by a swing bridge that fortunately opens “on demand” (i.e. you don’t have to wait for an “on the hour” opening)

In about 10 miles, we would be upon a series of 4 fixed bridges, a 67′ cable tram and multiple swing bridges. Wow. Busy morning. As we would approach each fixed bridge, Derrick would take the binoculars and try to find the “measuring stick”. The measuring stick would tell us how high or low the tide was in relation to the height of the bridge.

Here’s what I’ve learned in my 2 days on the ICW. Some bridges have a dysfunctional measuring stick (i.e. it tells you you’ve got 68′ clearance — but it’s really more like 64′)….other bridges seem to have a well calibrated measuring stick (65′ = 65′)…and yet others want you to just play Russian roulette – i.e. no measuring stick. The bridges we came under today were either well calibrated…or of the Russian roulette vintage. Here’s the routine. Once a measuring stick was sighted, I would lay on my back in the forward most portion of the hulls – staring up at the mast…as Captain Pat sloooooooooowly maneuvered the mast to a position just before the bridge. I would then have to decide if we thought there was enuf clearance for the boat to continue forward. Technically, you should see the mast…and not the bridge…and then you know you are clear. Pat is back at the helm…sweating bullets….until he hears the “all clear”.

What about the 67′ cable tram. It’s a tram alright. What is the tram for? Well of course – it’s for sending golfers in Myrtle Beach from the east side of the golf course on the intercoastal – to the west side of the golf course. Now, when these trams go across the intercoastal, the tram cars drop FAR BELOW the 67′ cable….so, it’s like a PAC MAN video game for sailors with tall masts – trying to miss (or take out) the trams. The task is to get beyond the tram cars without taking them out with your mast. Seems like a bit of a design flaw by the Army Corp of Engineers….but hey, not nearly as bad as the New Orleans levee system. I digress.

Government Secrets:Forget everything you are about to read and see. It’s just an illusion.This is a ‘beam me up Scotty moment’. I was surprised that the picture even came out — fully expecting it to be automatically erased by ET (the Extra Terrestrial). But, here it is — just beyond Myrtle Beach proper and the golf courses — the Starship Enterprise.

* South of Myrtle Beach, cookie cutter homes and more lawn ornaments, we entered the
* Waccamaw River – which snakes thru 30+ miles of untouched swampland.
* Scenes from the Waccamaw
* And a huge tsunami wake from this Coast Guard ship

Within 5 miles of our final fixed bridge of the day, we realized that it would be precisely highest of HIGH tide at the time of our attempted passage. Hmmm….a bit risky. Considering our very limited clearance at low tide….we decided against trying to make it to Georgetown (just on the other side of the bridge) – and ended up anchoring on the north side of a small island on the Waccamaw.

For some reason, Earl is going ‘south again. Not sure what is going on with my little buddy – but he won’t eat…and barely moves. I’m forcing him to take some juice from a can of soup by putting it on his gums – and then he has to lick his gums and the soup juice on them. Don’t know what else to do. He keeps sneezing so I’m hoping it’s a virus that he can eventually beat. The vet said his vitals were normal. Stay with me Earl buddy.

Bridges…bridges…and a snails pace on the ICW

Wrightsville NC to Myrtle Beach SC on the ICW

We departed Wrightsville NC at 6:30am, with the goal of making it under the first fixed bridge 10 miles south at low tide around 8am. We arrived at the bridge at 8:20….eased thru…as our mast cleared by at least two feet. Whew.

Some of the notable sights for the day include:
-sea grasses along the North Caroline coastline
-a happy Captain Pat after getting thru the first fixed bridge of the day
-Fisherman hunting for oysters and crabs along numerous inlets

The next fixed bridge was in a narrow ICW stretch…and had no depth markings. Thus…it was pure guesswork if we would get under it successfully. The height of the bridge looked short to me…but miraculously we cleared this one too.

Now we are traveling along the Cape Fear river. I keep checking to see if Robert DiNiro is hanging under our bridge deck. All of the ICW reference manuals noted big currents, rip tides and rough navigating through the Cape Fear River. Guess they were referring to some other Cape Fear River…because we got to Southport NC (exit from Cape Fear) in no time…with no problems. I’m not complaining. Now the dilemma is deciding if we should stop for the day (11am) or keep going and try to get under the next fixed bridge when the tide is coming in. We decided to keep going. I’m feelin’ lucky today.

The next fixed bridge turned out to be higher than 65′ and we cleared under this with no problemo. With…one more fixed bridge to go. I hoped we weren’t pushing our luck today. It would be practically high tide for this one. Technically, the bridge clearance of 65′ is for high tide…but don’t always count on it. Better to be safe with $30K in rigging…to just travel under these bridges at the lowest of tides. Here we go…our last fixed bridge of the day…and it’s high tide.

Derrick first spotted the depth markers along the bridge. These markers indicate how many feet clearance you have – based on the tide. This one shows 68 feet. Should be plenty of room. We slowly approached the bridge to be sure….and we did have about 1 foot of clearance. Note to self. Do NOT trust the bridge height markers along the ICW.

Our final bridge of the day to get by – was a pontoon barge swing cable bridge. This is a fascinating contraption. The bridge keeper only opens the bridge on the hour…and we arrived at approximately 2:10. We would idle and do circles for 50 minutes until the 3PM opening. 3PM finally arrives. The bridge is actually a barge on pontoons with a bridge tender house, and cables to hold it together with the fixed part of the bridge. Once it opens, you have to wait for the cables to drop to the bottom of the channel Once the cables have dropped, the bridge tender hails you thru.We finally crossed into South Carolina.

Today’s destination is the Myrtle Beach YC marina. It is a bit upscale….but at least a place to tie up, get heat…(tho the temperatures are warmer here)…and take showers. I’m trying not to look scraggly anymore. At an “upscale” place such as the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club, I thought I might be able to find a decent restaurant, pizza or even grocery store within walking distance. To my dismay, there is nothing but 4 lane highways with lots of billboards and a few convenience stores selling cheese whiz & chips. Seemed like everyone in this town was a sport fisherman high on testosterone. It was creepy, redneck, and I was ready to get right back onto Cat Maudy. Yes, I’m ready to be in South Carolina, but not Myrtle Beach. We ordered out for pizza – and luckily they deliver to the boat.

Tranquility of the ICW

Sneeds Ferry to Wrightsville NC

We left the Swan Point marina in Snead’s Ferry NC at 7am…and made it under the fixed bridge at low tide with about 1 foot to spare. It’s a bit unnerving when you consider that a sailboat’s rig could come crashing down, smashing your boat and more frightening thoughts — should you make contact with the top of a fixed bridge. My gut was knotted – and this was my first fixed bridge. Captain Pat navigated every so slowly. We crept up to the bridge…despite the winds and currents trying to move the boat in every direction. At the point of no return, I grimaced. It was hard to look….but I did. We were “clear”. We could navigate under this bridge without the rigging coming down. This is one of the most stressful events for a sailboat owner, with a tall mast – navigating along the ICW.

Traveling along the ICW….unlike driving Interstate 95 at high speed, is a slow motion event. The beauty of slow motion — is watching the schools of dolphins, playfully swimming at your bow, or stern, and jumping thru the wakes of powerboats. The landscape changes from rural and natural, to urban….and back to rural. And unless you fall asleep, you don’t miss a thing.

In addition to navigating UNDER fixed bridges, we also experienced waiting for draw bridges to open. 10 miles south of the last fixed bridge, is a “swing” bridge – which we waited for the bridge tender to open. As we go thru, the bridge tenders make note of the name and hailing port of your boat. I surmise they report this back to the NSA.

How often have you given any thought to how bridges operate? From the vantage point of the water, the swing bridges are a fascinating operation. They pivot in the middle…and all of the southbound and northbound boat traffic hi tails it thru before the bridge pilot decides you have to wait for the next hour. Cat Maudy had pedal to the medal….and we navigated through before the bridge tender closed the bridge.

I’m not sure who started the idea of placing very large objects on their front lawn overlooking the Intra Coastal, but more than one person decided this was a good idea. Scary. I’ll just call this the land of lawn ornaments.

We went thru 2 swing bridges.and one drawbridge. We lose a good deal of time waiting for the bridges to open, but it’s all good. More time to absorb the scenery. Along the intracoastal, there are various inlets to the ocean. Most of these inlets are too shallow to navigate (unless you are in a rowboat). You can tell when you are nearing an inlet, as the water changes color to this beautiful blue-green. More dolphins appear too.

After a full day of ICW motoring, we ended the day at the SeaPath Yacht Club…in Wrightsville NC. It’s a bit upscale here – looks a tourist ocean side town. We walked a few miles to get to the ocean….have a coffee….and grab some dinner. On the walk back to the boat…a couple walked by us and said “hey – you look like sailors”. When I inquired “why would you say that?”, he responded that we looked ‘scraggly’. Ok, I’ve only been on the boat for 1 day, motoring along the ICW – so not sure how I looked ‘scraggly’ – but decided after we got back to the marina – I needed to take a shower. Pronto.

Kitty update: Earl seems to be much much improved. not his 100% self…but he is interested in food again…and drinking…talking and purring. i’m feeling much better too. Back at the marina now. Slight diversion….the shower can wait temporarily. First…I need a dose of endorphins….aka skate of loops in the marina parking lot…

First Mate hops aboard…Earl taken to the ER

Sneeds Ferry, NC

After a quick stop at the grocery store to stock up on provisions, I departed Ellicott City MD in our Jeep, for a 6 hour drive to Sneed’s Ferry, NC. Somewhere just below Richmond, while driving on I-95 southbound – Pat calls. He suggested I check the air in the left front tire. Apparently there is a slow leak. Now hey…this could have been useful information BEFORE I started the trip? So, I pulled into a gas station in Petersburg VA…and sure enough the tire was nearly FLAT. I filled her up with air…lots of air. A real lotto air. Ok, I didn’t really know how much to fill it – up. Um…maybe I overfilled? Dunno. so I’m gonna drive well under the speed limit for the remainder of the trip. Don’t want the tire to explode. No gauge anywhere. Feeling blonde.

Arrived in Snead’s Ferry NC at around 2:30pm. Unpacked a jeep load of stuff – including dinghy davit’s, groceries, inline skates, computer and my pink ‘bag of stuff’. Armed with endorphin toys and food, I’m ready for boat travels now.Pat filled up the 400 gallon water tanks on Cat Maudy, and we positioned heavy items (i.e. my pink bag of stuff) and other materials into the cockpit and the salon, to help the boat “sit low” on the water. We would not be performance cruising on this journey. It was more like getting as much weight on the boat as possible so that we could have maximum advantage for crossing under a total of 12 fixed 65′ bridges between Sneeds Ferry NC and Charleston SC. The success of our travels would depend on timing the crossings under the fixed bridges – i.e. low tide, heaviest possible boat weight to lower our profile, no wake, no waves. The conditions needed to be perfect – as our height to the top of the mast measured 64.5 feet. Pete had climbed the mast earlier in the day to remove some unnecessary items that added to the mast height (wind anemometer) – and of course the anchor light had already been ripped off from a previous fixed bridge.

It’s hard to describe Americana when you scrape off the outer layer. Mostly we see landscapes and strip malls from a roads eye view. Who takes time to look closely? We are so busy multi tasking — that appreciating “the moment” without interruption seems foreign. From the water, the Intra Coastal Waterway (ICW) — are scenes that transform right before your eyes. Sneads Ferry, home of shrimp boats, friendly folks and the local’s only inlet to the Atlantic – is filled with spectacular, simple and mesmerizing views. The folks who run the Swan Point Marina…are completely down-home and delightful. These are the people who give you a ‘courtesy car’ – which is their car to take anywhere you want. There is a genuine 1950’s feel to this area. 2 miles down the road is an indoor roller rink – and Saturday night seems to be the ‘happening nite’. I could be persuaded to stay here for awhile.

While at the marina…we checked out an incoming shrimp boat…Fishermen were unloading their catch — a combination of shrimp and fish. Piles of shrimp and fish cargo were transferred to awaiting hands for further commercial distribution. It was apparently a good catch. One fisherman showed me a large fish with human like teeth – called a Sheepshead. The fish would accrue to $6K….minus fuel….and boat operations…a few hundred bucks for the crew and captain. Doesn’t seem like much for very long days of work.

Earl is not doing well. He’s very weak…curled into fetal position, didn’t greet me…no talking…no moving. He needed intervention. At 7pm, we decided he needed to be seen by a vet. We have access to a car – and I searched the Internet for local emergency vets. We got a referral to an emergency vet in Jacksonville NC. So at 7:30pm…we all piled into the jeep and headed to the Jacksonsville NC. I had Earl in my arms. He was barely moving. After wasting 20 minutes going in circles and getting lost – we finally found the Vet emergency room. They did blood work..checked him out…and everything came back 100% NORMAL. Which is good…but hey – what gives with this little guy? The doctor gave Earl an IV to pump up his liquids, and cortisone to encourage him to eat…and antibiotics. I’m feeling better. I hope Earl is too.

On the way back to the marina, we stopped at a the Thirsty Turtle — a convenience store drive thru. That’s right, a convenience store drive thru. It’s a big building….with the middle cut out so that you can drive thru like a car wash. Once inside…you stop the car…and some teenage kid comes up to your window and asks you what you want. You tell him soda…chips whatever…and he brings it to your car…you pay…and drive out the other side of the building. I love Snead’s Ferry.

Got TANG? Change of Plans…

Captain Pat Log Entries:
Beaufort to Swansboro 11/14
I made some scramble eggs with sausage and covered with shredded cheese. And we had coffee
Tim leaves around 1000
Derrick and I do some chores
Derrick and I motor at about 1100
First bridge at 1215 which is sitting at 63 ft.
Derrick and I waiting till 1400
At 1400 the bridge clearance is at 64.5 ft.
We are starting to approach the bridge.
I watching the sides of the boat as we continue thru the bridge
Derrick says it looks good.
I proceed watching the sides, which are close
I look up and see the bridge center light make contact with the mast head tri color light which falls off the mast and onto the cockpit floor right next to me.
We accelerate and Derrick and I get into a regimen of travel down the ditch.
We are approaching the next bridge and I get a call from the sailboat behind us
He says the bridge vertical clearance shows 65.5
I knew that we were at low tide but thank him.
We anchor in the little cove near Casper’s marina in Swansboro, NC
Swansboro to swan point marina 11/15/07

The weather report continues to indicate rough conditions. There are high winds from the massive cold front moving through the region. Freezing temperatures from South Carolina north. Derrick and I are discussing how to handle the situation. Suddenly the boat starts moving. The wind has pushed on us enough and we drag anchor. The boat turned perpendicular to the wind dragging the anchor at about 2 kts in the direction of the highway bridge. At 150 yards off the bridge I got the engines started and was able to hold our position off the highway bridge. We weighed anchor and started motoring. So, the boat decided that we would continue on.

I call Casper Marina hoping to find a slip for the night all I can think of is the freezing temps coming. “Casper marina, Casper marina, this is sailing vessel Cat Maudy on channel 1 6 over.” No answer. “Dudley Marina this is Cat Maudy on 1 6, over.”

Dudley answers, “This is Dudley marina to the vessel hailing Dudley Marina. We don’t have room for you”.

The conditions continue to worsen with winds increasing on our nose at 25+ kts as we navigate into the ICW from the anchorage. I decide to continue south when I feel the boat stop. AGROUND! We were stuck hard to shoal off the boundary island that is homeport of the pink Chris Craft. I bear down hard in reverse but Cat Maudy is a big cat and she settles in. with the wind pushing us onto the shoal each second. Shit. I call Jane. “I just wanted to you to be the first to know that I have officially f%&#ed this up, bye.” My next call was to TowBoatUS.

Homeport for this TowBoatUS is at the Casper Marina. After about 15 minutes of waiting for the tow a couple of gleaming hull powerboats plow thru traveling south and bouncing us on our bottom. I can see that the water is 2 feet or less. Each wake is pushing us further onto the shoal when I see the TowBoatUS vessel emerge from the Casper Marine dock. Looking north up the ICW there is another 55 feet of plastic pleasure plowing along with huge wake following it.

I stand out on the fish deck of Cat Maudy and motion my hands and arms in a down direction. I can see the couple on the SunSeeker waving and smiling as they trek mindlessly south. “Well Derrick, this wake should pretty much set on this shoal forever. I suppose if we get some pink for the hull and green paint for the cabin we join that old Chris Craft.” The wake lifts Maudy and thrust forward. I look over and the towboat is approaching and the SunSeeker wake lifts us up and over the shoal to deeper water beyond it. We’re floating and making way directly for the anchorage in which we spent the night. Rock On! I fire the diesels and hear the towboat captain yell, “Come to port hard.” I do that, then maneuver past a day marker leaving it on the port side. Another massive turn to port and we are completely clear and making way back into the ICW.

“Derrick lift the engine compartment hatches and check for water in the engine bilges.” Derrick scrambles then returns. “Looks dry, we’re good to go.”

We head south ticking off the miles slowly. Day markers, ICW mileposts, the Onslow beach swing bridge and at last I’m able to locate the phone number of Swan Point Marina. They have space for us and are ahead about 6nm. We have been traveling with the dolphins. They travel up and down the ditch. Six dolphin are swimming ahead of and toward us. They disappear under our bows. At first I’m not sure what to think of them swimming with the boat in these tight quarters but then I figure, “They have a handle on it.” We make our approach and the guys on the dock are guiding us to a side on slip inside the man made jetty they call Swan Point Marina.

Cat Maudy’s bow rubs gently on the dock and then we are made fast.

Swan Point Marina 11/16/07
This is a down day. I made a temporary anchor light. Bought an AquaSignal hanging anchor light from Paul the owner of Swan Point Marina. A southbound hippy guy that is here on a Wharram Nari is installing a new diesel. The transmission on his current Yanmar industrial diesel had a massive transmission problem so he is forced to install a new engine and transmission he can’t get parts for his existing diesel. His name is Pete, and built this particular Wharram 23 year ago and has made as many yearly trips from Kitty Hawk, NC to Sarasota, FL. He has a beach business in Kitty Hawk and works in the marine industry as a welder in Sarasota. We chatted this afternoon about his boat and Cat Maudy. I told him the story of the jib stay tang. He thought about it for a while and then later in the afternoon he stopped by to make a few comments about it. I had him take a close look and he, “Oh, that has a lot of material left” but it is not to be trusted on the outside.

Notes from Land…
Thursday 11.15.07

– received a flurry of phone calls from Pat
– Earl ate some smoked turkey….and took a poo…..seemed like good signs
– winds gusted up while Cat Maudy was at anchor in the Intra Coastal…dragged the boat toward a bridge w/heavy current…Pat got engines going in nick of time
– Cat Maudy ran aground…while they waited for a tow…a big motor yacht w/big wake got them off
– waited 30 min for a drawbridge to open in a tiny channel w/3 other boats & 25 knot winds
– got a slip at a marina in Sneads Ferry NC…with about 2 min to spare b4 a tornado passed over
– I’m not taking any more calls from Pat today…

The Swan Point Marina at Sneads Ferry provides a “courtesy car” for use by it’s marina guests. What IS a courtesy car? The owner of the marina leaves the keys under the mat in his car – and the guests at the marina take the car wherever they need to go

It has now been 1 week, since I was on board with Cat Maudy. I’ve been on land, and have missed the adventures. I’m in the middle of 18 hour work days, and a phone that never stops ringing. It is prime-time for our business. Perhaps the tipping point is the notion of a Courtesy Car? Or the other countless events that you can only live, when you take risks? But for now, it’s all about Earl. I wasn’t sure if my little buddy was getting better, and the thought of him leaving this existence without saying goodbye wasn’t sitting well. I had to be in a place where people leave their keys in their cars for you to use. I had to experience the Intra Coastal. I had to be with Earl. I had to drop everything I was doing. I had to be in this story.

Rigging deteriorates offshore near Cape Hatteras

Following the advice of Commander’s Weather, Cat Maudy and crew waited until Sunday morning for the offshore seas to settle. Unfortunately the projected weather of 15-20 knot northerly winds….turned out to be a wimpy 2 knot wind. Cat Maudy only holds 90 gallons of fuel. Not enough to motor to the next inlet at Beaufort NC. They need wind. Much more than 2 knots.

Captains Pat & Tim decided to change course and sail further offshore, into the gulf stream, in an attempt to catch better winds. Be careful what you wish for. 50 miles off shore – the crew got wind, and seas. More than they bargained for. More than Cat Maudy was ready for. It was too much stress on the rig connector to the jib. Something about the connector do-dad is wearing out…and the wearing out part just got worse. Yes, I can be technical. Cat Maudy needed repairs, and the crew worked tirelessly to bring her into the Beaufort Inlet without the rig crumbling….by Tuesday morning. The original plan was to be in Charleston SC by Tuesday — but with Cat Maudy’s fragile state….the furthest she could travel offshore – is Beaufort NC.

Captain Pat Log Entry
Norfolk to Charleston, SC 11/11
Early start delayed to 0800
Motoring out the Norfolk harbor and see what appeared to be a crab pot but was really a porpoise.
Sailing south to Cape Hatteras passing Virginia beach and on and on till the wind died
Motoring late in the afternoon as the wind prematurely turned southish
Motored all night south.
Daylight and near cape Hatteras 11/12
Concerned about the timing but decided to do some tacks.
Wind re-appeared on the starboard
Big massive tack nearly out to the Gulf Stream.
Conditions worsen port tack is problematic and the jib stay is taking it hard Detour to Beaufort NC (motoring)
Decide to motor to Beaufort, NC at about 2000
Switch off the driving watching duties as we motor with a 20 gusting 27 head wind and building seas.
Arrive Beaufort, NC 1030 11/13
Meet Mr. McCullsky. Old dude with a 72ft custom built sport fisher.

The crew wrestles Cat Maudy into safe harbor, and they rest at Moorhead City, NC. It’s time to evaluate sailing offshore versus motoring down the IntraCoastal Waterway. The weather forecast is for winds from the WSW at gale force for Wednesday..turning to NW on Thursday also at gale force. With fiesty weather, and a frail rig, it is time for Plan B.. travel via the intracostal. Captain Tim needs to return to his job- and we fly him back to Maryland. This leaves Captain Pat, and unknown crew Derrick who will travel with Pat for the remaining leg of the trip. Who is this man with unlimited time on his hands?

Apparently Earl is ill. He is not eating or drinking. He did not appreciate days of cold weather and bumpy sailing offshore. I’m hoping he’ll feel better tomorrow. He needs TLC.

Is Cat Maudy ready for offshore sailing?

Norfolk VA and offshore
Pat calls around noon. Cat Maudy’s current position is the mouth of the Rhappannock River, with following seas growing to 6-7 feet….and rollers coming in around 10 feet. The GPS showed they were sailing at 18 knots. A line had become loose over the starboard beam, and became entangled with “something” under the hull. Captain Pat was concerned it would wrap around the prop or the rudder, and wanted my feedback. Should he dive under the hull to free the line. Hello??

That would be a firm NEGATORY Captain Pat. There will be NO diving under the hulls while sailing 18 knots in 6-7 foot seas. He would have to WAIT, until the sea state calmed before the line issue could be resolved. I found it hard to imagine that anyone would consider diving under a boat in these conditions to retrieve a line, but then again, I’m an extreme athlete (i.e. not known to always fully engage the brain) – so it is best not to be too judgmental.

Pat calls again around 4:30pm…the crew had safely arrived in Norfolk VA from an overnight sail down the Chesapeake Bay. The line had broken free during their travels. The engines worked fine. The prop and rudders had no issues. The auto-pilot kept blowing a fuse….but there would be no diving for lines.

Our two cats, Soxy (black and white alley cat) and Earl (16 year old Siamese) were on board for this sailing adventure. Both cats have been on board with Cat Maudy for a year, but neither had done much sailing due to the long list of repairs – keeping Cat Maudy at dockside. The cats loved boat life — at dockside. That’s all they knew. Until now.

Soxy discovered she could not keep her balance on a rocking boat. She ran scared around the foredeck 3 times…and the crew had to catch her, and lock her inside. Surely she was looking for land, and an opportunity to escape the moving boat. Earl slept through the entire trip.

Writings and journeys, flavored with spice…

%d bloggers like this: